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Roland,
I "proudly" own a 1996 Dodge Stratus, 2.4 liter, 4 cylinders. It has 98,000 miles on it. My check engine light came on, so I followed your advice to others about turning the ignition on-off-on-off-on. The code I got was 1-2-2-1-5-5. Is it time for a new car or is this one salvageable? I already had the water pump and timing belt replaced. I've heard that the head gaskets are know to go bad on these cars.
Answer -
Hi Andrew,
The 12 code means that the battery was disconnected in the past 50-100 key on-off cycles, so that is not an issue unless you don't think that happened.
The 55 means end of code readout
The 21 say that there is something amiss with either the upstream or downstream oxygen sensor. If you have access to an OBD-II code reader you can further refine the analysis as to whether it is one or the other, and in what way it is amiss. These two devices are located on the exhaust manifold and exhaust pipe and are not that hard to replace. They cost about $ 75 each, but you may only need one of them.
So if you can get a second code readout (the number will be somewhere between 131 and 141) you would know how to proceed. It could be a bad sensor but it also could be a shorted electrical wire on harness to a sensor. The code will suggest which sensor and what issue is involved. It will result in decreased fuel economy until it it corrected.
This is not a cause for trading in the car.
If you want to change the sensor yourself let me know the more detailed code number. I don't think it should cost very much to put in a new one (basically unscrew/screw-in once you get a wrench on the bad one).
It is good you did the time belt because that engine will be suffering valve/piston clashing if the belt fails in motion.
Roland
Roland,
I took my car to AutoZone for a free check engine light test. They got error code 135. They said it was the front oxygen sensor on the manifold. Did they give me the correct information? If so, do I have to reset my computer after installing the new sensor? You said the 12 code meant the battery was disconnected in the past 50-100 starts. My battery has been connected for over a year, (over 100 starts). Is there another problem I have to look into?
Andrew
Answer -
Hi Andrew,
The 135 code says specifically that the heater circuit for thr upstream sensor mounted on the exhaust manifold has failed, or the circuit is open/shorted. To check the sensor heater coil, disconnect the sensor plug and measure the resistance across the pins (the two next to the connector clamp); these have white wires. If the resistance in not in the range of 4-7 ohms then the sensor heater is bad and needs to be replaced. Otherwise check the wires of the harness for shorts (let me know if you need specific wiring trace pin numbers). If you disconect the negative clamp of the battery for a minute or so the old stored codes will erase.
If the battery cable clamps were loose or corroded that might explain the 12 code.
So you are on the right track.
Roland
Roland,
I had the oxygen sensor in front of the catalytic converter replaced and the check engine light went out. I tried replacing it myself but I couldn't quite read it. Thanks for your help!
Next problem. My transmission started a bad habit of getting stuck in second gear every so often. 35,000 miles ago I replaced the fluid and filter. Is she wore out or is there something electrical I can investigate?
Thank you,
Andrew
Answer -
Hi Andrew,
Being stuck in 2nd gear is a sign of a self-defense mechanism the transmission takes when something that could cause harm is detected.
It sounds like your electronically controlled transaxle has detected some problem with the unit and in order to avoid any unnecessary damage has gone into "limp-in" mode which means it won't shift out of 2nd gear. It allows the car to be driven at moderate speed to a garage for analysis. The transmission controller logs the problem as a two or four digit number stored in its memory. The transmission controller does not have a self-read capability as does the engine controller so you can't use the ignition switch to get the codes.
The dealer or a competent transmission shop should have a readout unit to find out what the code number is and from that they can make some conclusions about whether the trans can be repaired without being removed from the car (for example a electrical or hydraulic pressure problem) OR if some mechanical damage is involved (but follow-up a "mechanical damage" diagnosis by dropping the oil pans and looking for debris to be present or not) which if true would require a pretty expensive rebuild, I am sorry to say. No debris in the pans would suggest the possibility of an hydraulic problem only.
So that is my best advice: go to a dealer/independent and ask for a diagnostic readout of the transmission controller and an estimate for repairs. Get the code number(s), and if you like, write back with a 'follow-up' question to me and we can compare what you are told with what the shop manual says is the problem of that code, and then decide if you are getting the correct advice. You don't have to give them a blank check, just ask for a diagnostic readout, the code numbers and the repair estimate. It will cost something to get that done (should be under $100), but the more information you have before going forward the better. I would not go to a franchise-type (AAMCO) transmission shop, but rather an independent with a good reputation or a Chrysler dealer. The place has to have a code reader with the adapter plug that mates with the Chrysler-type transmission readout plug. So inquire whether that is true, if you don't go to a dealer shop. If you go ahead with the repair, the cost of the diagnosis is often credited against the repair cost. But don't rush to judgement because a total rebuild costs about $1,500 so you don't want to authorize that unless it is the only possibility. Let me know what happens, because the feedback helps me too.
Roland
P.S. I'm glad that you got the 02 sensor replaced successfully.
Roland,
I took my car to a local transmission specialist and they got code "74", "Oil temp. out of range?" They said something about a prindle switch? He recommended not doing anything until the problem gets worse. They charged me $53.50 for the diagnostic readout. What do think?
-Andrew
AnswerHi Andrew,
I am mystified...there is no 74 code for the automatic trans on the '96 Cirrus according to my '96 Cirrus shop manual. There is a 71 code for trans overheat due to some mal-use while you are in the autostick (manual shift) option. But do you have that option? If not, then that 71 code would not apply, I believe. It it occured it should cause the trans to return to automatic mode. It is due to engine or trans overheating or a faulty temp sensor (thermistor). There is no 74 code for the engine either. So either they told you the wrong number, or their code reader doesn't use the standard code readout numbers. I would go back and ask them to explain this "74" again. I don't buy it, unless you might have a 71 code and you also have an autostick option. But even then, that should not have put you into limp-in mode, according to the shop manual, rather just put you back into full automatic mode.
The 'prindle' is nothing more that the familiar PRNDL switch which is attached to the shift lever and controls the trans of course.
I think you may have just been told nothing useful and paid $53. So if you aren't satisfied with their explanation ask for a refund. Then let a Chrysler dealer try the code readout.
Roland
