Chrysler Repair: Dodge Grand Caravan starts than dies, dodge grand caravan, negative battery cable

Question
Roland,
I have a 1998 Dodge Grand Caravan, 3.3 liter eng. with 124,000 miles. My situation is almost identical to the 1999 Chrysler T&C starting issues that was posted on 9/3/2005. It would start, run, die, 3 or 4 times, then when the key was turned there would be nothing.  I would add that as I turn the ignition key, that there is no response from the dash board, (rpm, gas gauge, temp. gauge, PRND12 and the idiot lights do not do a self check). When I turn the key on the fourth try and the starter does not even respond,I have checked the starter relay (in the box in the engine compartment) when turning the key and can feel the relay pulling in. I just recently had it towed to a dealer when it was dead and they concluded that it was the BCM (Body Control Module)which they replaced. Well, 24 hrs. later it's doing the same exact thing, start, run, die 4 times and then when the key is turned, nothing. I have had the starter replaced, a new battery and have replaced the negative battery cable with the ground connection to the block and have cleaned the two ground connections to the chassis. The dealer now has it back and is asking me whether they should change the instrument cluster which they think might be the problem. I am concluding the the BCM that was replaced at a cost of $760 was the wrong part because there was no change in the output. In other words, the van is doing the same exact failure that it did before this part was changed. Any ideas?

Answer
Hi Dave,
The '98 Caravan and the '99 T & C have the same wiring diagrams, virtually. So I would suggest you look at the same fuses that I mentioned to Bruce on 9/3 (thanks for reeminding me of that question/answer...I haven't heard back from Bruce but I will write him now and find out).
While you do note that the starter relay is pulling in by feel, it would also be wise to verify that its internal contact points are really closing and sending current on the brown wire to the starter motor solenoid switch (on the starter proper). One way to verify that would be to jump between pin sockets 30 and 87 of that relay, after removing the relay from the socket (thus replicating what the relay does) at the immediate time when the starter motor is not responding. If a jumper does it, but the relay didn't, then the relay is bad internally. The pin numbers may be shown on the relay or in the socket, or if not, then just jump directly across the socket (try both directions (front-back,left-right), one way or the other will cause the current to be sent to the starter solenoid). If you have a voltmeter or test light, the other way to verify the starter relay is to check the brown wire at the starter solenoid switch to make sure that it gets 12V just when a helper tries the starter.
Also verify fuse 23 in the power distribution box to make sure it is secure and if visible that the wire isn't cracked inside).
Forget the instrument cluster, as I suggested to Bruce. It will not prevent the starter from working or the engine from starting, but if the fuses I listed were flakey, that would be relevant.
Once you get to the bottom of the starter issue we can work on the die out issue.
Roland
P.S. If/when this is fixed, I would seek redress from the dealer for the unnecessary replacement of the PCM.