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Hi. I really hope you can help me or send me the right wiring diagram. I have a '90 Chrysler Lebaron, 2 door,3.0 v6, 4 speed AT, tilt steering. The horn and the cruise control don't work. I need to get it inspected and need for the horn to work. I tried grounding the red/blk wire behind the airbag...no luck. I checked for voltage on fuse #3...actually a circuit breaker and there is voltage there and the breaker tests good. The relay #4 located at the left kick panel didn't click and I tried another relay and it didn't either. I have no voltage at the horns at the grn/red wire. Can you please help me with this. Thanks.
Dennis
Answer -
Hi Dennis,
You might begin by checking fuse #11 as that provides the voltage for the horn relay coil and also check that one side of that fuse socket has 12V coming to it. If not, then there is a probably a loose 12V wire (red/white) that supplies fuses 9. 10, and 11, which would also take out the brake lights AND the cruise control. If that 12V supply is o.k. then look further.
Shift your attention to the horn relay socket. Check that you have 12v on the pin socket that is closest to the rear of the car in the horn relay position, which is where that same 12v supply should be present for the horn relay coil to work. You should verify that the pin socket on the opposite side of the relay position (toward the front of the car) is in fact grounded when you press the horn button (that is the pin that is connected to the black/red wire at the steering column). If that pin doesn't ground when you press the horn then the clock spring is not grounding the black/red wire (though I note that you tried grounding that wire and the horn didn't blow, so the clockspring is probably not at fault). If that all checks out, then the horn relay coil circuit is good.
Then check that you have 12V on the top pin socket of the relay position (which is supplied by circuit breaker #3).
Finally, jumper across from the top pin socket to the bottom pin socket (dark green/red wire goes to the horns) which should cause the horns to blow (you are thus simulating the closing of the horn relay contacts).
One of those tests/jumps will prove to be non-functional and thus tell you what needs to be fixed.
Let me know what you learn and whether you fix it. I have the '90 wiring diagrams and can xerox copy and snail mail you the necessary pages.
Roland
Roland,
Hi again. You really helped me out. The problem is the unit ( whatever you call it ) behind the steering wheel. I didn't get continuity between the red/blk wire , behind the airbag to the plug on the back of that unit in the steering column. This is some sort of brush unit so you can turn the steering wheel and the contacts will still make. It also has he wires for the cruise that wasn't working, and the wires for the airbag...and my airbag was on. When I pulled the plug loose on the back of the round unit...pieces of contacts fell out. I guess I need to find one of these. Do you know what it is called? Thanks again.
Dennis
P.S.>> I would like a copy of those wiring diagrams.
Answer -
Hi Dennis,
It is called a "clockspring" because it allows you to turn the steering wheel while maintaing electrical contact with the harness at the base of the column. But I thought you grounded the black/red wire at the base of the column which should have made the horn blow (because that is what the clockspring does)? In any case, send me you mailing address and I'll send the wiring diarams for the horn and also the instructions on replacing the clockspring. You have to be careful not to set off the air bag when you work on the steering wheel so wait till you get the written materials.
Roland
Roland,
Hi again. Yes, I did try grounding the red/black wire inside the steering wheel but the horn didn't sound and no relays clicked. When I used a jumper at the horn relay and the horn did sound is when I started taking the steering column apart and found the wiring harness plug that attaches to the clockspring. I then checked continuity from the pins on the clockspring to the wires that plug into the cruise control switches and the horn...none of them had connection. I also believe that somewhere inside the clockspring was a short as well because, the 3 years that I've owned the car, the "air bag" light was staying on. My dad has a junked 1990 Dodge Spirit that I found a clockspring in and was able to use. I have a Haynes and a Chiltons book and read to have the steering straight and to disconnect the battery to keep the air bag from going off.. My horn and cruise control now work. I would still like a copy of the prints you have of a 1990 because neither of the books I have matched the wiring in my car and I'm wanting to get the headlight doors to working again and can't find any wiring that matches it either. Again...it's a 1990 Chrysler Lebaron, 2 door, 3.0 V6, 4 speed ATM, tilt steering, with the remote turn signal switch (on the dash instead of on the column). Not to mention that I need to find out what stopped the odometer from working...the speedometer works but not the odo. My address will follow this e-mail.
Do you have any advice before I start working on my truck...this is on my 1995 Toyota T100 4X4 , extended cab, 3.4 V6 (3400), 5 speed? It's leaking oil, BAD! It leaks mainly when I come to a stoplight or park and dripping right on the exhaust manifolds! That's why I've got it parked right now. I've ordered 2 valve cover gaskets, 6 sparkplug seals, 16 valve cover grommets, and 1 plenum gasket. It looks to be a time consuming job just for a valve cover leak. I've never put valve cover gaskets on a car/truck that had a plenum...or at least a plenum like the Toyota 3.4. It almost looks like the plenum has to be "split" just to get to all the bolts on the plenum AND to get to all the valve cover bolts. I hope I won't need the gasket that fits where the top plenum connects to the lower plenum because I just ordered one gasket and I believe it is the gasket that fits between the lower plenum and the intake manifold. This truck had a timing belt put on in 1998 at 66,000 miles and head gaskets in 1999 at 75,000 miles because of a recall on the head gaskets. It has 164,000 miles now. I've only had to put a starter on it and front breaks (besides plugs and wires) since I bought it in 1998. Anyway, any advice or suggestions on doing this work on my truck would be appreciated. Thanks for everything. Have a good one!
Dennis Griffith
532 Pannel Road
Reidsville, NC 27320
P.S. if you have a way to attach the diagrams to an e-mail...you can send them to dgmenace@hotmail.com.
Answer -
Hi Dennis,
It is good that you were able to replace the clockspring successfully.
I have the '90 wiring diagrams for the headlamp door system and will copy and snail mail them to you. The entire set of diagrams is 144 pages, so all that is impractical, but let me know if there are anyother electrical problems you need the diagrams for and I'll try to get those too.
I don't have any experience with the Toyota engine. It brings to mind the Chrysler 2.5 V6 that requires a similar dismantlement to change the spark plugs on the rear bank. The only mitigating factor is that the plugs don't need changing until 100,000 miles.
On the odometer, you may find that the gear that drive it are worn out. There is a supplier of new gears that charges $25 for a new set. They are at www.odometergears.com
I'll wait until tomorrow to copy the diagrams, so let me know if you need others.
Roland
Roland,
I would like the prints for the work I've already done with the horn , cruise, & air bag. The other ones that I would like are any prints for: the headlight doors, the instrument panel, the message center (Mine has "door ajar", "deck ajar", "low washer fluid"), and the wiring for the fuel sending unit and gauge.
I also need a code or fault list that is for the '90 because mine doesn't match...I'm getting codes for a shorted fan circuit but that would make the check engine light come on and causing over heating, which is not happening. I will gladly pay for the shipping if you want me to. Thanks for all your help with this. Have a great day!
Dennis
AnswerHi Dennis,
I copied the pages and put them in a mailbox this noontime so they should arrive next week.
Roland
Hi Dennis,
I've identified the pages that need to be copied and I can do it on 7 sheets (14 sides). It should only cost me about $1.35 to do it including the postage. So it isn't worth the .37 stamp to reimburse me.
Let me know if you have the digital (electronic) dash, because otherwise I'm copying the sheets for the conventional analog type of dash. No need to write back unless you have the digital.
Roland
