Chrysler Repair: 1996 Sebring coupe code 54. 2.5 V-6, chrysler sebring lxi, 1996 chrysler sebring lxi


Question
QUESTION: My 1996 chrysler sebring lxi coupe was running fine one day when it suddenly stalled on the highway.  It would turn over but wouldn't restart. when i checked the codes it came up as #54 (no camshaft signal/problem with the camshaft sync circuit).  On my model car you have to replace the whole distributor to replace the sensor, so thats what i did, but it still won't start.  I've tried to follow the wires back to the pcm and check all connections but havn't seen anything that looks damaged.  Do you think the problem is with the Pcm? and if so, why doesn't it show a code for that.  I also replaced the crankshaft sensor about 2 years ago, and code 11 hasnt come up, so i figure the problem isn't with that.  Im stumped.  Please help!
Thanks,
Christian

ANSWER: Hi Christian,
Do you still get a code 54 after first disconnecting the battery to erase the old codes? If not then presumably the new distributor repaired the first problem of a failed cam sensor. I would then check the egr valve to make sure that it is not sticking ajar. There is a valve stem at the open area between the valve body and the vacuum actuator which has a slot. Put the tip of a screwdriver in the slot and move the stem back and forth to be sure that the stem is moved by internal spring-action to a dead stop. If not, then spray the stem with WD-40 where it enter the valve body and move the stem some more. Then see if it will start.
Let me know if you still get the 54 code.
Roland

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QUESTION: Hi Roland,
Thanks for the quick response. Unfortunately,I do still get a code 54 ( it is the only code that didn't reset- as well as 12, & 55). I've tried to look at all connections and wires from the distributor back to the computer and can't find anything damaged.  It turns over but still appears to be in auto shutdown due to the camshaft sensor) Do you have any ideas? and do you think i should return the distributor i bought since it appears that wasn't the problem?
Thanks,
Christian

ANSWER: Hi Christian,
If you can satisfy yourself through electrical verification that the wires to the sensor from the pcm are patent and are not shorted to ground and that you are getting 12V to power the cam sensor, then I think you should return/exhange the replacement unit. It could very well be that the sensor in that unit may be bad, but to save the hassle if a second replacement still doesn't work you would do well to use a volt-ohmmeter to check the wires as described.
The black-white wire on pin 2 of its plug should show 12V when the ignition switch is in the run and in the starter position. The black-red wire on pin 3 should be continuous to pin 33 of the powertrain control module plug and black wire on pin 1 should be continuous to ground (and metal surface of the engine. By continous I mean should read 0 ohms resistance. Also check the the black-red wire reads infinite ohm to ground when it is not plugged in to either the distributor or the pcm. If all those are true, then I would believe you have a defective distributor sensor. My 'call' on those wires is based upon the '95 manual so if the wire colors or the readings are far different from what I describe here is an alternative:
An orange/white wire on pin 2 would show 5V with the ignition in run and starter (or if it is yellow it would read 8V), a tan/yellow wire on pin 3 will also go to pin 33, and a black/light blue on pin 1 would be continuous to pin 33 of the pcm plug. Those are the color assignments for a '96 Sebring convertible with the same engine as your coupe (or the yellow wire is from the '00 coupe manual). I am troubled by the possibility of 3 different supply voltages for the cam sensor. Have you verified that the replacement was designed for your '96 model coupe? It may be the wrong distributor.
Roland

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QUESTION: Hi,
I checked all the electrical connectors (all check out) and replaced the distributor twice ( it has two different ones for my model car- a .475 cam and .526") and I still get a code 54. One the thing I did notice after taking off each of these distributors is that my rotor appears to always be in the same position.  Do you think my timing belt is broken? Or would I get some other code for that?  I also talked to someone that had one of these cars and had replaced their crank sensor and they said it ended up needing to be replaced again.  I am not getting the same code i got when my crank sensor was bad (code 11) but could a crank sensor also trigger code 54. I greatly appreciate your help on this.
thanks
Christian

Answer
Hi Christian,
Yes, if the timing belt breaks you would lose the cam signal, so that is a real possibility. Simply remove one or the other of the round cam sprocket covers on the front of the engine to see if the sprockets are turned when you crank the starter over or simply pull on the belt to see if it is loose. The crank sensor will not be affected by the loss of the timing belt and also it would not cause a 54 code if it failed. So, check out the timing belt. I am sorry to not have mentioned that possibility originally.
Roland