Chrysler Repair: Poor engine performance, chrysler sebring coupe, poor engine performance

Question
Roland
Back again with my 1997 Chrysler Sebring Coupe 2.5 L Automatic,
Mentioned earlier, Ive changed most every sensor possible.  I still have problems in lower RPM's with vehicle trying to sputter and die.  The MAP, TPS, ECT, EGR and Solenoid have all been changed.  IAT was not change, because you recomended not, that only helps to start the engine at various temps.  Could a Idle motor cause this problem?  
When the vehicle shuts down, it usually starts back up only to run crappy.  Another thing I noticed was that I have hair line cracks inside the 3 month old distributor cap at the base.  I was thinking that could do the same thing.  It runs OK at higher RPMs.  If the Dist cap keeps cracking like it does, what could be causing this?  Ive replaced it 4 times in a year. I would appreciate your steering me in the right direction. If you need more info, let me know.
Thanks Roland

Ricky  

Answer
Hi Ricky,
Because there is no way for me to look up the history (the archive only lists the title of the problem and doesn't have a search capability) unless you happen to know the date of your earlier question(s), I am a bit at a disadvantage. Can you tell me the previous or present status of the fault code readouts?
On the intake air temp sensor, just to be sure, why not check whether its resistance is dropping as the intake manifold warms up. The values should be approximately:
50F=8,000 ohms, 80F= 1800, 180F=170, and 200F=20. If there were very little change in the resistance or didn't approach these value then replacing the IAT would be warranted.
On the distributor cracks, were the previous 3 caps the same brand? Maybe if they weren't Chrysler OEM you should try one of those. Overheating or mechanical stress are the reasons for cracking. The hold down nuts are supposed to be torqued to 9 foot-pounds, so don't overdo it.
So aside from those, you might want to look at the engine in the dark on a humid evening to see if there is arcing occuring around the spark wires or distributor cap which would be a sign of insulation failure which could also explain your problem.
What is the history of the spark plugs. The double platinum plugs are supposed to be good for 100,000 miles on that engine (because it is a hassle to change the rear bank plugs). Are the current plugs of that design, and if not, how long have they been in?
Other than getting another fault code readout, I can't think of anything else to consider.
Roland