Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
I have a 1995 chrysler sebring with a 2.5 engine.I was driving it down the road it was running fine all of a sudden the car felt like it would not take the gas.If i let up on the gas pedal it would run and go, but if i pushed it to far down there was no response.I drove the car 10 miles back home and thought i would check the fuel filter and pressure.I took off the filter and blowed through it fine then i check the fuel pressure and it read 55 psi.the car will start up sometimes and run you push down gas pedal alittle bit or if you push it down slowly it will respond.but if you push down a lot it sounds like it out of gas out of ideas please help me
Answer -
Hi Robert,
The usual approach is to take advantage of the on-board diagnostic capability. The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that may stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). By "on" I mean just the normal position when the engine is running, not the cranking position. The 'check engine'light will remain on when you leave the key in the "on" position with the engine still not running. But then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for that engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair. If this approach doesn't produce fault codes at all, not even a 55, then you will have to go to a good tune-up shop where they have a more sophisticated code reader in order see if there are any codes. You should be able to get a readout for under $50.
So those are some ideas for you to consider. Let me know what happens and how I might be of help once you have read out the codes. About the only thing that wouldn't produce a code is the EGR valve and that usually prevents the car from idling or performing well when you step on the gas, which is true in your case, at least for the second part.
I can tell you how to observe for that problem when you write back with any codes.
Roland
the only code it flashed was 12 then 55
AnswerHi Robert,
I would then inspect the valve stem of the EGR valve to make sure that it is not sticky in its motion or perhaps stuck open. It is located on a pipe between the exhaust and intake manifolds, near the thermostat housing and it has a mushroom-shaped cage on it which has a vertical stem inside of it with slot in the stem so you can see whether it moves when you rev the engine. If it doesn't move then take the tip of a flat blade screw driver and try to raise and lower the stem by hand. If it appears sticky (though in one direction it it spring-loaded) or is not closing all the way then spray the base of the stem with a penetrating oil spray. The stem should be all the way down in the valve when the car is idling, otherwise it will by-pass exhaust gas and prevent good idling and hesitation when the throttle is opened.
The spark plugs on the car are only supposed to need changing every 100,000 miles so I suppose you have verified that that is not necessary at this time. But if you are reaching that mileage since the last plug change it would be worth looling at their condition. Changing out the rear three is a real headache.
Their could be something wrong with the injector electrical system, but that should set a code.
You might check that the vacuum hoses to the vapor recovery system aren't cracked or disconnected (see underhood label for drawing as to where they are).
Lastly are you having any trouble with the charging system? A faulty alternator might cause such a stumble as you describe. Let me know if you have any questions about the egr, I can send you by snail mail some pages that describe the valve and its vacuum connections. But check out the valve stem for free movenment when you rev the engine by means of the throttle. If it is really stuck open you will need to to remove it and clean the passageway for it to close all the way.
Those are my suggestions as to why your engine might be so low on power. By the way the 12 code means that the battery was disconnected from the engine controller sometime in the past 50-100 key on-off cycles. If that is not the case then I would check the battery clamps as well as all the wires on each clamp to make sure they are all tightly connected.
If you have problems understanding the egr I can send you the pages from the manual about it. Just give me a postal mailing address.
Roland
