Chrysler Repair: car wont start, screw driver, flat tip

Question
Hi
I have a 95 sebring w/2.5 ltr. engine.It ran fine last night when my daughter parked it.This morning it turns over fine ,but won't fire.
I pulled 1 plug out and there is no spark at plug.I checked fuel line and it has pressure.
I checked code from the check engine lt. on dash,it flased 12 and32.according to my Haynes man.12 is battery disconnect and32 is erg solenoid.Could this cause engine not to fire?
Please help she needs to get to work tonight.
thanks
kelly

Answer
Hi Kelly,
One question to begin with:
Did you ground the threaded shell of the spark plug against the cylinder head (or another good engine "ground") when you tested for spark? If not then do the test again to verify that with a proper ground you are still not getting spark.
If you get spark then the 32 is the relevant code because a problem with the egr valve can prevent starting and idling. I would look at the valve where you will find a mushroom-shaped 'cage' inside of which is the valve stem that is supposed to go up and down as needed freely to open and close the valve. The valve or the stem can get cruddy and cause the valve to stick open. You can take a flat tip screw driver and insert it in the slot in the stem and try to move the stem up and down. It has a spring to resist opening (up) but otherwise should move freely. If not, try spraying some penetrating oil on the base of the stem. To idle the valve has to to be closed (the stem all the way down). Also check all the vacuum hoses associated with the valve for cracks or disconnections.
Getting back to the no spark, if you indeed don't have spark, here is what I wrote earlier to another questioner with a 2.5L no spark situation:
"Let's assume this is a problem with the distributor/coil/cap/or rotor rather than with one of the timing/fuel synch sensors (of which there are 3 and ideally if one of the three were bad you would have gotten a code for it). And this assumes that the fuel pump is operating when you first turn on the ignition (for about a second then shuts off) and that it pumps while you are cranking (which verifies the 3 sensors are working and that the ASD relay is closing to provide power to the coil).
I assume that you have shown that you don't have spark using a spark plug with the shell grounded to the cylinder head with the spark plug wire inserted into the coil tower (thus by-passing the rotor and the cap) while someone cranks it for you.
To check for the coil's wiring to the rest of the system, note that there is a 6-way and a 2-way (with only 1 wire) connector to the coil/distributor. Using an ohmmeter:
check for continuity between pin 11 of the pcm and pin 1 of the 6-way (black/gray) which is the ignition coil driver wire;
check for contiunity between 6-way pin 2 (black) and ground;
check for continuity between PCM pin 6 and pin 2 of the 2-way connector (dark green/orange or black/red?) which is the ASD relay output wire;
check the resistor in the distributor cap itself:measure between the center button and the ignition coil terminal; it should be about 5,000 ohms.
You can check the primary of the coil by measuring the resistance between the socket at the coil where the single wire (black/red or dark green/orange?) of the 2-pin connector is normally connected and a ground: it should be 0.6 to 0.8 ohms
The secondary coil resistance can be measured between the coil tower and the same point as just described above on the 2-way socket at the coil: it should read 12 to 18k ohms.
There is a resistor in the distributor cap: it should read 5,000 ohms between the center button and the tower terminal.
Check the rotor for continuity (no resistance value is given in the manual).
While I have focussed on the coil, etc. be aware that the failure of any of the sensors could cause the ASD relay to open which would kill the spark too, so that is why you want to verify that the ASD relay is in fact closed (there is voltage at the fuel pump when the engine is being cranked, or you have 12V on the red/black or dark green orange? wire on the 2-way connector coming to the distributor which is the ASD output voltage).
That is about as much as I can offer tonight. Let me know if this is useful and if not what else you might need to know.
Roland

If all those tests check out AND we get no related fault codes, the manual suggests replacing the distributor if you indeed have no spark."

So give this approach a try and see if you can get the engine running. I'm going to be away from my computer until maybe 5pm PDT so can't respond until then.
Best of luck on getting this going for your wife.
Roland
P.S. On the 12 code, that means either the battery was disconnected or the electical connection to the computer was disconnected sometime in the past 50-100 key on-off cycles. If that hasn't been the case, then check the battery clamps and the wires as far as you can trace them to make sure that there isn't a loose connection somewhere. But if the fuel pump is producing pressure, it should mean that the elcetrical system is o.k. at this point.