Chrysler Repair: starting and shuting off, chrysler sebring, pump strainer

Question
hi im the owner of a 1995 chrysler sebring with a 2.5 liter engine, on friday i did a tune-up,wires,plugs,cap,rotor. my car drove fine for 1 day but on the 2nd day while i was driving the car started shaking and eventualy it shut off. i was able to restart it but it will only run for about 2 minutes than it will shut off agian,i replaced the fuel pump & strainer,tps,fuel filter,air filter. on yesterday i disconnected the number 1 fuel injector and started the car and it ran longer than 4 minutes,i took it to a local shop thats why i replaced the tps. please if you know of reason why my car is acting like this please respond...

Answer
Hello Rob,
I wonder if one of the temp sensors is not reading correctly or is flakey so that the mixture is not right*. The most useful thing to do would be to try to get the fault codes that are likely stored in the engine controller memory to readout. Try using the ignition key: turn it "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on" (doing this quickly, no longer than 5 seconds). Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin flashing, then pause, flashing, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and keep track of the numbers. Repeat the readout and verify the counts are correct. Then group them in pairs in the order that they came out, thus forming two digit numbers. You may notice that the pause is shorter between the digits of a given number, and longer between the numbers themselves. Then send me a 'follow-up' question telling me the results of your readout. By the way, 55 will be the last number (two groups of 5 flashes each) and that is the code for "end of readout".
I have the troubleshooting manual for the 2.5L engine and we can look up the possibilities of what is wrong based upon what fault codes you show.
There is also an essay on fault codes at the site:
http://www.allpar.com/fix/codes.html
which gives the meaning of the code numbers. But then you need to get specific info for what exactly might be the diagnostic tests or parts to replace to complete the repair.
The other thing to test, when the engine dies and refuses to restart, is whether you have lost the spark. Take an old plug and wire and when that happens just exchange it with one of the new ones at the distributor, only instead of removing the new plug that you disconnected just hold the threaded shell of the old plug on the cylinder head for a ground. Then get a helper to try and start the engine and see if you are getting any spark or not. Crank it for 5 seconds and see if you get spark for the full 5 seconds.
The 2.5 appears to have a challenging accessibility problem when you try to change the plugs on the rear bank, no? Maybe there is something that you had to remove that didn't get replaced correctly?
Roland
* For example the coolant temp sensor might not be changing its resistance as the coolant warms, so that mixture is not being adjusted properly. It should read 7,000 to 13,000 ohms when cold, and gradually drop to 700 to 1,000 ohms at fully warmed condition.