QuestionThanks for the initial help roland.
I went to a dealer and had the transmission inspected, cost was $85 (which seemed rather high), but can be applied to the cost of the repair.
The number they gave me for the error code was
DTC 24,47
solenoid switch valve stuck in low-rev position is what they said and needs a new valve body. They want $191 for parts and a total of $485 for the repair. Is this reasonable? Would they be replacing the fluid with this procedure?
Thanks-
David
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Followup To
Question -
Hello Roland,
1995 chrsyler 3.3 litre transmission problems. I changed the tranny fluid about 2 months ago, and appears to be clean (synthetic fluid). I had some problems with it shifting and pulled over into a honda dealership (closest place to stop) and the dealer, not an expert, came out and he thought it smelt "burnt", but looked clean, and full.
The symptoms are when i run it for some time (1-1 1/2 hours) straight on the freeway and depress the brake, the engine almost dies and revs quite high (i think it is because the engine is in gear not neutral). After getting off the freeway, when I take my foot of the gas while driving, it is obvious the car is still in gear, and doesn't go to neutral. I tested it by switching to neutral it is noticbly different less drag. We had the shift plate replaced about a year ago. It runs well when it is cool or not driven very long. Could it be a linkage, and how expensive will this be to fix?
Thanks!
Answer -
Hello David,
I am not certain that I understand what you are describing as the behavior of the trans. When the trans is in a gear setting and you are at rest, it is not in neutral; rather it is ready to roll and the torque converter is slipping until you take your foot off the brake and let the converter drive the output turbine so the car begins to move. So there will always be a difference in the feel between the feel in drive than in neutral.
It could be that what is called the torque converter lockup mechanism is not releasing when it needs to do so. This mechanism is put into play when the car is going at about 40 or more mph and instead of allowing the converter to operate it simply locks the two turbines together so there is no slippage and you get better fuel economy. But when you step on the brake pedal it has to release as the wheels slow down so that the engine won't die (much like you have to put in the clutch on a stick drive car when you slow down). So that might explain why it appears to die when you slow down, and then it releases (but I'm not sure why the engine then races). But in any case, I would make a few comments: did you use the Chrysler brand of trans fluid when you changed it? If not, then that could be part of the problem. You don't really change all the fluid, only part of it, because there is fluid in the cooler core and the lines to it, and some of the fluid in the torque converter also doesn't drain that well. So if you have a mixture of old and new fluids, and they are not identical chemically, you could be having a problem for that reason. You can power flush the entire system to get the correct (Chrysler Branded fluid) stuff.
If that history is correct, try that first. If the trans fluid is kosher, then I would recommend that have the trans controller read for fault codes.
You might do well to go to a dealer or an independent trans shop (but not a franchise type) with a good reputation and ask for them to check the adjustment of the shift lever.
Then if that doesn't correct it have the trans's electronic controller read out for any fault codes it may have stored if it has recignized a malfunction in the unit. That is a simple task (but ask how much they charge before authorizing it, and verify that the shop actually has a unit for reading the trans codes as all shops may not be so-equipped), done with a diagnostic readout box, and the codes, if any, are clues as to why you have this problem. If you do that, ask for the code numbers, and for a diagnosis and estimate of repair costs. I have a manual that we can check this information against to verify that the proposal is appropriate.
Take it step-by-step and don't panic.
Roland
AnswerHello David,
Well at least the good news is that there is no damage apparently to the clutches or planetary gears which would be much more expensive. I can't tell you whether the cost is fair or not because I don't have a cost estimating book. If you live near any independent (but not franchise-type) transmission shops you could go to them and tell them the symptoms, and the code readout, and ask them for a repair estimate to compare with that of the dealer. Try to get a reference of a Chrysler brand owner for whom they have done repairs to get a customer evaluation of the shop.
The code readout and the repair that is proposed by the dealership seem to be appropriate. So if you can't get a better deal at a well-recommended independent shop, going with the dealer would appear to the your only alternative.
I believe that in the course of removing the valve body the fluid will be drained again so ideally if they put in new fluid to replace what is drained it will in effect produce a total mix that is pretty much new fluid, but check out which fluid was used the first time it was drained and if it wasn't the proper stuff (Chrysler) then it would now be the time to have them power flush all of the present fluid out of the trans/converter/cooler system.
Good luck and let me know how it all works out.
Roland
