Chrysler Repair: engine electrical, sebring convertable, chrysler sebring


Question
i have a 2000 chrysler sebring convertable thats not getting spark, i changed the plugs, wires,rotor and distributor cap. Theres still no spark. What else would make it not get spark?

Answer
Hi John,
I suspect that the problem is in the sensor for the position of the crankshaft or camshaft, as the case may be. I would like to know which engine it is that you have: 3.0L, or 3.3, 3.5, of 3.8? These may have different set-ups to time the spark so that is relevant to know.
The other thing you can do, possibly, is get the engine controller to readout any stored fault codes that will tell us which sensor has failed. You may be able to do that with the aid of your ignition key and switch.
To read out the codes, which are two digit numbers, just turn the ignition switch
"on-off-on-off-on" within a 5 second period.
Then watch to see the check engine light to be "on" and then to begin to flash, followed by a pause then more flashes, pause, etc. Count the
number of flashes before each pause and write down these
numbers as they come. (Repeat the readout to make sure that you have the numbers correctly).
The last two groups of flashes will always be five
flashes each, which is the number 55 (because the codes
are all two digit numbers), and 55 means the readout
is completed. Then going over all the numbers you have
written down, group them in pairs in the order that they came out to form the other
two-digit numbers that constitute the "fault' codes for your present situation.
Write back and tell me what you found and I'll give you further suggestions.
The possibility also is that the coil in not working. One way to verify that the spark timing sensor is working is to check whether you have voltage getting to the low voltage side of the coil or not. So take a look at the 2-wire plug- in to the coil (I am assuming that this is the type of coil that you have, it not, ignore this suggestion and we'll work from the fault codes.) The plug will have two internal contacts in the shape of a "T". The 12V is supposed to be present on the upright contact of the "T" whenever you are cranking over the starter motor. If the 12V is present for the first 1-2 seconds of a 5 second crank, then that is a sign that the spark timing sensor is bad, and you should also find that you will get a fault code which, depending on the engine, will tell us that the sensor is bad. If you get no 12V at all for the 5 second crank then that tells us the the autoshutdown relay is bad. If you get 12V for the full 5 second crank then the coil may be bad or the wiring from the controller to the coil may be bad. To measure for this voltage, use either a voltmeter or a neon glow light and put the two probes of the meter/light on: the upright of the "T" contact and on any grounded metal surface of the engine or on the (-) post of the battery which is what we call "ground".
So if you can do either or both of those (fault readout, 12V on the spark coil's plug we will move ahead after you get that result). Try to get back to me before noon PST Saturday as I will be gone for about 24 hours after that.
Roland