QuestionI hate to turn this into a HowTo but I need some quick help.
I tested the coolant temp sensor and that was out of calibration. I also looked at the thermostat and the spring in it was sprung out. So I got both parts and replaced both of them successfully.
I then filled the radiator with coolant and it leaked from the thermostat housing manifold quite a bit. I did not see instructions about how to properly change it so am I missing something? I tightened the manifold down a lot, but it seemed to still be loose, so I tightened it till I couldn't do it anymore. Of course I used the supplied gasket. Do I need sealant as well?
After it leaked I yanked on the manifold a bit more and it moved. So I tightened it down even more. I cracked the manifold. So I'm getting one of those tomorrow, but what is the proper way to do it?
Either way I'm sure it's the sensor and thermostat, so thanks a lot for that direction.
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Thank you very much.
I think something may add to this. The temp readout on my instrument cluster doesn't work. Thought it was something electrical. Maybe my thermostat is bad? If the coolant temp sensor is out of calibration will a new one fix it? Or is that something programmed by the computer?
One of the worst parts for me is ordering parts. With the jargon and different options I never know what to buy.
I'll probably go to napa but partsamerica has:
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?PartType=135&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Therm
A bunch of thermostats. Some 195 degrees, some 180 degrees, some 192. Which part number should I get?
I'd replace the coolant temp sensor to be safe, cheap enough.
http://www.partsamerica.com/SelectParts.asp?PartType=290&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Coola
Would any work?
Thanks so much.
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fault code of 17.
Snow storm up here in wisconsin so I cant do much troubleshooting on it sadly. I have the lanadu version, so that's a V6 3.0. 136HP i think. displacement on that engine is 2967cc.
I probably won't do the front myself. I don't have the spring compressor. I can do some mechanical things but nothing too indepth. Possibly the rear suspension I may consider doing. I have a haynes manual somewhere.
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I've seen a million of these stalling questions. Usually after its been running this happens. usually when you turn it on and put it in gear. And usually when I'm at low speeds turning. It will shut off completely, need to put it in neutral and turn it on.
Could it be the distributor plate I hear a lot about? I don't see it on napa's catalog. I have yet to replace anything until I know about it.
Hate to ask 2 questions:
Also, are there air shocks on these cars? I think mine has it, possibly aftermarket. It hasn't been serviced in years and I push down on the front/back even a little and it rocks like a boat, horrible on the interstate.
Thank You
Answer -
Hello Andy,
On the stalling question, there are a number of possible reasons ranging from spark plugs that have not been changed for more than 25,000 miles to various engine control issues. But one way to reduce the uncertainty is to readout the engine controller to see if it has noticed any malfunctions and identified them as Faults. There is a two digit code number for each fault, and you can obtain the numbers by a simple technique.
Begin a readout as follows: Take your ignition key and turn the ignition switch "on-off-on-off-on" and leave it "on". Do this switching quickly so that no more than 5 seconds elapses. Then watch the 'check engine' light to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and make a note of them in the order that they come. The last two flash groups will be 5 in each. Repeat the readout until you have the numbers accurately (the same result, two times in a row). Then pair the numbers two at a time in the order they came, to form two-digit numbers, for example the last number will be 55 which is the code for "end of readout". Then write back and tell me the other numbers that came out and I'll see if any of them are related to your problem.
On the wallowing of the suspension, that certainly sounds like the shocks in the back are worn out, as are the shock absorber "struts" used on the front end. The rear ones are easily changed, requiring simple nut removal to slip then old shock off their mounting bolts.
The front strunts are more challenging because you have to remove the shock and the coil sping surrounding it (this is called a strut) and you have clamp the coil spring with a suspension lowering or coil spring clamp while the car is on the ground, then when you jack it up the spring will be in a safe configuration for later removal. In addition you have to take off the axle nut and a couple of bolts on the suspension to allow for the removal of the strut assembly. You need a good set of sockets and ratchets, and a torque wrench plus written instructions to do it correctly. After you are done the front end needs to be aligned. The shocks cost about $25 each and the struts about $50 each. So let me know if you have the tools and interest to do the work yourself and I'll xerox a copy of the instructions and mail them to you.
Let me know what the readout of the controller shows. Also tell me which engine type you have and its displacement.
Roland
Answer -
Hi Andy,
The code 17 means that the either the coolant temp sensor correctly reports that the engine is running too cool OR that the sensor thinks the engine is running too cool because it is out of caliabration. I suspect the latter, but it could be either. Tht sensor is located on the top of the engine, left side, right next to the thermostat housing manifold with the top radiator hose attached to it. It has 2 wires (tan/white, black/light blue) for id. You can check it with an ohmmeter: it should read 700 to 1,000 ohms with the engine coolant warmed to 200F and 7,000 to 13,000 ohms at 70F, and even higher in Wisconsin in the winter! You can probably test it in a pan of water with a thermometer if you don't believe the engine temp gauge which is operated by a different sensor (200F should normally be mid-range on the gauge). If that sensor was off value, it would cause a too rich mixture after warm up and thus the stall.
On the front suspension, you only need to buy a coil clamp kit (to lower the car a la hot rod) and apply it while the car is standing on the ground with the spring compressed already by the weight of the vehicle. That is enough compression to remove the coil from the strut once you get it off. But be sure to use all the clamps in the kit on each spring, do one side at a time, because you don't want the compressed spring to get out of control!
Roland
Answer -
Hi Andy,
It is possible that there is nothing wrong with your temperature gauge if the thermostat were stuck open it might never rise very much (except on hot days in summer).
I would try to get a measurement of the temp of the water in the cooling system which is independent, using a themometer in the radiator filler opening (but before the system, if it does get hot, starts to get pressurized). But you would also know, if your heater is not putting our much heat, that the engine is running too cold because of a faulty thermostat. The manual call for one the that opens between 192 and 199 (thus a 195 is o.k.) and of course it has to be compatible with the 3.0L Chrysler V-6 (probably the same for all years). So if you have measurement of the coolant showing it never gets to 195 or poor heater performance, then replacing the thermostat is in order (if you haven't owned the car since new, for all you know it may have no thermostat).
On the coolant temp sensor issue, I would be inclined to buy an inexpensive volt-ohm meter and measure the resistance across its terminals once you know that the engine is up to a running temp 195 and see it it measures 700-1000 ohms, or put it in a pan of boiling water and read the resistance, after removing it from the car. It is an input to the engine controller so that if it is off-value the mixture that the controller tells the fuel injectors to create will be inappropriate. So the sensor being calibrated (ohms at the operating temperature) is what is crucial to be right. At this point I don't know whether it is your thermostat or you temp sensor that is bad, either could cause a code 17. So you will have to do some measuring to find out which, or possibly both. On the coolant sensor just ask for one that fits your engine, if you need it.
If the dash gauge still seems to be inoperative, you could try to test it by finding the sending unit for that, a small device on the front of the engine, right hand side (e.g. toward the cabin) that has a single wire (violet/brown). To test it you could ground that wire with a jumper and see if the needle of the gauge goes off scale when the ignition switch is "on". If it does, then the gauge and wire are o.k. and you need to buy an new sending unit. It too is a resistance changing with temperature unit just like the coolant sensor, only it operates with a different set of resistance value vs. temperture (generally a lot fewer ohms than the coolant sensor at a given temp).
So get you parts at a local NAPA or Chrysler dealer so that it is easy to return if you get the wrong one.
And remember that the sensor that controls the mixture is called a 'coolant temp sensor', and the one that operates the gauge on the dash is a 'temperature gauge sender'. You can't mix them up because the first one has 2 wires and the second has only 1 wire (you would mearure its resistance between the single wire prong and the threads on the body of the unit).
Roland
AnswerHi Andy,
I just awoke and thought maybe all this happened because you were trying to mount the thermostat upside down! So just in case, the bulk of the thermostat goes down (e.g. the spring part) and because it didn't sit right when you tried that, you turned it over? So make sure the spring side is down, then rotate it until it sits all the way down with the flange fully seated in the groove of the opening.
Roland
