QuestionI recently picked up a very clean '91 covertable with 125K miles & 3.3L V-6. It has an intermittent problem starting. Checked all fuses and wires I could think of and also tried to start with starting fluid (either). Cranks just fine but not even close to firing! Seems like elctrical problem but where to start ... HELP !
AnswerHi Michael,
I might mention that the V-6 in the LeBaron is a 3.0L not a 3.3L. On the intermittant, I would begin by checking the engine control unit for what faults it has detected and recorded as coded numbers. Here is how to do that: Turn the ignition key as follows: off-on-off-on-off-on and leave in the on position (where "on" is the normal run position, and do the switching process in less than 5 elapsed seconds). Then watch for the check engine light to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and make a mental or written note. The last two groups of flashes will be 5 in each. Then pair up the numbers of flashes in the order they came out so as to form two digit numbers, e.g. the last number so formed will be 55 (which is the code for "readout is completed"). If the first number is "11", (e.g. one flash, pause, one flash, pause,) that means the photo-optic sensor (in the distributor) signal is not getting to the computer. If you get anyother numbers let me know about those as well. You can repeat the readout as often as you like so as to verify that you have the correct fault code numbers. This may give us the quickest answer as to what may be causing the problem.
Intermittant of course dictates that you try to examine the car at the time it won't start. The first thing to do is to see if you are getting spark and also whether the fuel pump is running. You will normally hear the pump run for about 2 seconds when you switch the key to the "run" position, so listen for that. On the spark, remove the the central wire from the distributor cap and hold its tip 1/4" from the cylinder head while a helper uses the key to run the starter motor for 5 seconds. See whether you get a good spark for the full 5 seconds. (Put the wire back in the cap.)
If not, then with your voltmeter measure the voltage on the wire that goes to the + pole of the ignition coil. You will merely remove the connector at the coil, and inside the plug you will see two contacts arranged as a "T". The upright of the "T" is the one that carried a +12V to power the coil, so put the + lead of your voltmeter on it, and the - lead on the battery - pole or any grounded metal. Then again have a helper crank the engine for 5 seconds and see if you get 12V for all 5 seconds, for 1-2 seconds, or not at all. Based on that result we can draw some further conclusions.
I'll wait to hear back from you as to what you find.
Roland
