QuestionHi Roland,
I have a 89 Chrysler New Yorker Landau, last night it just would not start. Started fine when I left, but when i tryed to leave again it just would not start.
Thought it was the battery but all the lights and radio work. I tryed again and got a aeeeeeeeeee noise. Had son come and jump it from his vehicle. It would want to start, but acted like it needed gas. Put 1 gallon of gas in and now it just acts like its not getting any. Tryed to turn over faintly a couple of times.. But once we take it off the jump charge, the battery starts to die again.For the past month since it got cold, I was having trouble starting it. I would turn it on and no start, everything came on but the car. I would have to turn the key on again and wait till the rpms reved up then down then try it again and it would start. Id have to do this several times sometimes. Last night tho when trying to start it it made a aeeeeeeee noise like it was the battery.
AnswerHi Ms Kelley,
There are several possibilities for what is called a "no start" condition. At this point too the battery may be so low on charge that it will need to be recharged in order to get the engine to crank over, and then we also have to determine why it wouldn't start even when the battery was charged enough. So if you can borrow a jump start from your son again, once we get a handle on 'why', that may do the trick;
or alternatively you could buy a battery charger for under $25 from an auto parts store if there is an electrical plug near enough to the car where it is now stalled in order to recharge the battery in a few hours which it will take (maybe 4-6), or you can take out the battery and get your son to carry it in his car to a service station/auto parts store to be recharged. If it is nearing the end of its warranty period in age (usually about 5 years) then have the battery tested after it is charged to see if the fluid in the battery shows that it has taken a charge (an hygrometer is the tool used for that, which is merely a baster with a float inside that measures the density of the battery fluid).
But on to the "no start" issue. Fortunately there is an on-board diagnostic tool, readout of the engine control computer, that may give us some help. Malfunctions are detected and stored as two digit numbers in the computer. Turn the ignition key as follows: off-on-off-on-off-on and leave in the 'on' position (where "on" is the normal run position, and do the switching process in less than 5 elapsed seconds). Then watch for the "check engine" warning light to begin to flash, pause, flash, pause, etc. Count the number of flashes before each pause and make a mental or written note. The last two groups of flashes will be 5 in each. Then pair up the numbers of flashes in the order they came out in order to form two digit numbers, e.g. the last number so formed will be 55 (which is the code for "readout is completed").
If the first number is "11", (e.g. one flash, pause, one flash, pause,) that means the distributor's rotational sensor signal is not getting to the computer. This is a common reason for no start. Check the electrical disconnect plug(s) at the side of the distributor and if they are o.k., then I would suggest you buy a new sensor unit. It is fairly easy to replace yourself, but tell me which engine you have (4 or 6 cylinder) so I can tell you how.
But there may be a different number read out (or no number other than 55) so let me know which numbers you get. You can repeat the readout as often as you like to make sure that you have them correct. A wrong number will mislead us.
You can do this readout even if the battery is low because it takes very little current and you are not trying to start it, just moving the key to the "on" position when you do the key switching trick. As long as the "check engine" light is working, the readout will go forward.
Roland
