Classic/Antique Car Repair: 72 Ford Gran Torino; motorcraft 2bbl, vac lines, ford gran torino, calibration code

Question
QUESTION: Phew- I think I am inthe right place now. Bought a tired72 torino that looked like a bomb went off under the hood.barely ran. |(1|)learned about 4wire alt and external regulator-repaired. (2)learned about points and wobbly distributor shafts- replaced. (3)replaced all poor connectors with loop terminals.going from knowing nothing,(Been stepping on blog landmines), up to MC 2150 carb and vac lines dilemma. carb has an electric choke that was wired open , works cause i jumped a wire, got warm. idle stop solenoid found broken wire resoldered and ran to key on 12v dangling right next to it; choke pulloff got on ebay, ready to hook everything up. but how do i adjust choke? and idle.?and is rich/lean just spring tension/ time thing or butterfly angle i thought choke pulloff was butterfly angle/ position



ANSWER: The choke cover should be set at 1 notch rich on all carburetor except carb tag number D2WF-CA and D2OF-VB. These two carburetor are adjusted to 2 notches rich. With the choke pull off seated as if there was full vacuum applied to it, the distance between the lower edge of the choke plate and the air horn on most carburetor of that year should be 0.150". Carburetor numbers D2ZF-LA should be 0.210". The vacuum line connections is another story. It depends on what engine is in the car, the Emissions calibration Code tag number and the date of build. The idle adjustment also depends on engine and so on. Let me know and we will go from there.
Brad

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QUESTION: no tag; might not be original carb, where would i find carb numbers?

Answer
That Motorcraft carburetor was manufactured with a tag attached to one of the screws on the float bowl cover. If the tag is missing it is simply guess and hope at what the carburetor is. Sorry.
I should have mentioned it before, but you may be able to find casting numbers or part numbers on some of the carburetor parts but they will be of little help. Ford has a unique parts number system that is real easy to decipher. The first letter indicates the decade. A "D" would be the 1970's. The second digit is a number and indicates the year in the decade that the parts was designed for or first used. In your case it would be a "2". But the numbers that you might get will only give a rough idea that it is the correct year. The same casting could have been used with a dozen different carburetors that all had different jetting and linkage for different engine, transmission, differential combinations. These early days of emissions were a real nightmare, thank god for computer fuel injection.
Brad