Classic/Antique Car Repair: 1966 plymouth fury 3, dual master cylinder, plymouth fury 3


Question
QUESTION: Hi, just recently bought a 66fury 3 ,it had little brakes when I bought it, has 4 wheel drum brakes. shoes look as new wheel cyls new drums good brakes properly adjusted,pedal feels as if its bottoming out hard as a rock and no stopping power,former owner converted manual to power brakes using used 66 vip parts
I bought and installed re-man booster and master cylinder and installed ,no change.when you bleed brakes pedal goes all the way to floor as normal.fluid is new and clean, rubber lines are new Thanks Rick

ANSWER: Ok, give me a little information. Is the cylinder a single or a dual master cylinder? If it is a dual master cylinder are both fluid reservoirs the same size or is one bigger than the other? Let me know.
Brad

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: single with no proportion valve Rick

Answer
Ok, the single master cylinder is what the car was built with with no proportioning valve, so that is good. Now we have to sort out what the VIP conversion kit consisted of. But before that lets back track just a bit. If I was doing the job after some one else had had their paws in there, I would have all the wheels and drums off the car for a good close up look see. The main thing that I would be looking for would be the position of the little push rods from the wheel cylinders to the shoes. I have seen one or more of these not located properly on the brake shoe and that means that the wheel cylinder needs more travel than normal and increases brake pedal travel. Also make sure that the shortest brake shoe on each wheel is the front shoe. The rear shoe needs to be the longest. This will greatly effect the shopping power. The self adjusting cables need to come down the back shoe and the self adjusting levers on the bottom should be marked R, and L. When you tug on the self adjusting cable and then allow it to come back down and the lever turn the star adjuster wheel it should turn the wheel so that the adjuster expands. The proper adjustment of the brakes is to turn the star wheel from the outside with the drum installed until the wheel will just barely turn. The using a long thin screw driver through the adjusting hole to hold the adjusting lever away from the adjusted, back off the adjusted until the wheel turns with a slight drag. I prefer to do this adjustment with the cars wheels installed as you can get a better feel of the adjustment. Once this is all correct then it is time to see what was done during the conversion to power that might effect the pedal travel. I have also contacted VIP for technical info on the conversion.
Brad