Classic/Antique Car Repair: engine wont start, digital voltmeter, distributor cam

Question
QUESTION: Hi,I have a 8BA flathead from 1950.As I was driving along at 30mph the car started to die out and backfire a little.It died on me 3or4 times,each time restarting after about a 30 second wait.One minute later,die again.Finally just quit and would not start.Checked the obvious and it seems to be getting no spark out of the coil.Tried another coil from my other Ford,both 6 volts by the way,and would not start either.No spark either from the coil.Was told to run a wire from neg.term. of battery directly to side of coil that goes to ignition switch.Tried that and car just went totally dead as if I had a dead battery which I know is not the case.Now when I try to attach that temporary wire to the neg.side of the battery,it sparks pretty good and I am afraid I will burn something up.Car is 6 volt pos. ground.Any suggestions or ideas would be appreciated. Thank you,Tom

ANSWER: I wish that these barber shop "auto experts" would keep their potentially destructive advice to them selves. If there is no spark coming from the coil the problem is most likely in the ignition point system under the distributor cap. The points open and close to cause the low voltage side of the coil to energize and then release its built up magnetic field in the coil to cause the high voltage spark out of the coil. The distributor on the 1950 flat head is located on the front corner of the engine and is easy to get to. With the cap off, have some one bump the engine over until the high point on the distributor cam has opened the points all the way. The gap should be .019". The point contact surface should be smooth and a light gray. It should not be pitted or burned blue/black. If pitted or burned the points will need to be replaced and the condenser should be replaced as well. The check the ignition system out using a digital voltmeter to make sure that there is voltage getting to the coil with the key on and that the battery voltage is up indicating a charged battery. If you get to this point and still the car does not run let me know and we will go from there.
Brad

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Brad,still won't start.I did install a new set of heavy duty Blue Point points.I also installed a new condenser,rotor and distributor cap.I am getting voltage to the side of the coil marked BAT.when the key is on.I even tried the 6 volt coil off my '52 Ford that starts up every time,so I know the coil is good but I get no spark out of it either when cranking the engine over.What next??

Answer
When you installed the new points did you set the gap when the rubbing block of the point set was on the high poiint of the distributor cam? the gap should be .019", and the points should close when the bubbing block is in between high point on the cam. When the points are open the voltmeter on the distributor side of the coil should read battery voltage, and when the points are closed the voltmeter should read zero. Let me know and we will go from there.
Brad