Classic/Antique Car Repair: changing out drive train, pressure lubrication, oil filtration


Question
I'm not sure if this is a question that you will have time for but I thought I would give it a shot.

I have a 1927 Buick 4 door with a 120 in wheel base and because I want to make it a daily driver I am looking into dropping in a more current 6 cylinder. The problem is the 27 has an enclosed drive line and matching it up with an exterior appears near impossible. The two other options seem to be change out the entire drive train to fit current wheels and tires (and brakes) or find someone who can mate the newer engine with the old tranny which I am not sure can be done. Any thoughts, ideas or direction you think I should go? I appreciate any help you can give.

Thanks, Matt

Answer
Matt, there are a few issues here, and detailing them for you, may help you in your decision.

When you say, "daily driver", I'm assuming you don't intend exceeding about 45-50 mph with this car, and don't intend taking it on a freeway for any distance. In other words, leisurely "hobby use", not daily freeway commuting or long holiday trips at high speed.

My inclination would be to go with a pushrod '55-'62 Chevy "235" 6-cylinder motor, or its GMC truck cousin. Both of these have full-pressure lubrication and oil filtration available. Earlier motors of this type (which you don't want) will have "dipper" lubrication for the mains and only an oil screen for filtration. They are all pretty bulletproof, but have a high wear factor pre-'55.

If you can find a '55-57 donor car, it would be ideal (or a car that somebody's doing a swap and taking out the 6 for an 8). Then you can use the tranny (you want the three-speed), rear axle and driveshaft, too.

The driveshaft will need lengthening and balancing by a good pro shop. Go through the motor, clutch, tranny and rear end at your leisure in the off-season, as long as it's a reliable runner otherwise.

Stick shift versions of the 235 will have solid lifters.I'd avoid the cast-iron Powerglide. You'll have to fabricate motor and tranny mounts and throttle, choke, and accelerator linkages. I'd get the old radiator re-cored and see how it does cooling the 235; you may have to get another row of tubing added.

I'd avoid anything made before '55; the enclosed tube drive and weak axles on these make them complicated and unsuitable for this swap. After '57 the rear axle stuff gets a bit complicated and would not be suitable for donor work, due to coil springs being substituted for leafs.

The speed issue comes up with relation to the car's original (and beautiful) wooden "artillery" wheels (one of GM's last gasps with wooden wheels; by '28 the Chevrolet would have full disc steel wheels for safety, while Buick clung to wood for a few years longer (till '32, which for my money are the loveliest Buicks of the '20s or '30s!).

Those wheels, unless completely remanufactured, are going to be of dubious safety; at any sort of speed over about 45 they are an accident waiting to happen, IMO.

However, switching to later, smaller-diameter steel or "mag" wheels are one way to really uglify this car and destroy its proportions...one reason we drive vintage cars is for their beauty and uniqueness.

I say, keep the original wheels if you can. If you can't, do a swap to '32 Buick wires and some modern tires to keep the proportions correct.

It's a good two-week fab job for a pro to get this swap done; a well-equipped and experienced amateur could complete this in a month or two of evenings and weekends.

Good luck!

--Paul