QuestionThis may be a repeat.
I guess that's the answer, I can attach that wire to the feed on the starting motor.
But, the wiring diagram shows 3 connections, one to the starter motor, one to the current regulatro, and ond to the ignition switch. Do you have a cop of the wiring diagram for the 1939 Packard? If not, can I get one to you? Fax? Email?
Thanks,
Ted
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NO, the Stude is 49 Chamnpion. When I sanded down a couple of wheels I discovered 3 coats of paint. Outside gray, next yellow, and I believe original color red. Haven't gotten very far with that car either. Had it running, started it about once a week, did not start it for 3-4 weeks, now woun't start again. Think it is a fuel problem.
Now back to the 39 Packard. Too good to pass up.
The previous owner pretty much tore out the wiring. There are old and new wires dangling all over. Basically, I have to rewire it from scratch.
New Question: On the schematic it shows a wire connedting on one end to the "lighting switch" and the other to "body feed". Do you have any idea what body feed is or where to connect it? I am thinking that since it is a positive to ground system, this might mean that it gets a positive charge into the wiring from the body somewhere.
Thanks,
Ted
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Sorry Dick - You did indeed come through this time, AND you also came through the last time. I re-read your previous answer and realized I msinterpreted it.
However, your last answer was dummy clear.
Thanks again.
Talk to you again soon.
Incidentally, I believe I spoke with you several times a few yers ago when I was working on my 49 Studebaker. I was in Carlsbad at the time.
I appreciate your help.
Ted
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OK, thanks again.
Now, with that wire connected to the high voltage output, wont' that send a high voltage charge back to the ignition swithch when the car is running?
Thanks,
Ted
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Hi Dick, thanks for responding so quickly.
I believe the ignition switch is original.
It is the coil that is a replacement and the coil does not have a terminal at the rear of the coil on which to connect the cable sheathed wire from the ignition. The wire has a terminal connection at the end.
It is a regular electrical wire but with a metal protective cable sheeting and the electrical diagram from the manual shows it connecting to the rear of the coil.
What should I do with it?
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Hello Dick. Just acquired a 1939 Packard 6 and would like to ask questions as I go along. I hope that is OK.
First, the wiring diagram shows a cable protected wire from the ignition switch to the back end of the coil. Currently there is a replacement coil which I assume worked for the previous owner but it does not have a connector at the reat. It has two just two connecting poles in the front. Can you shed some light on this?
Thanks,
Ted
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Congratulations - those are good cars - very well built and a real bargain at the time. If it has overdrive, it will be usable in modern traffic - but be careful of stopping distance - it isn't going to stop as well as a modern car. If it does not have overdrive, it's still a good around town car - but I wouldn't drive it over 50 for long periods of time.
Those cars had an anti-theft arrangement on the ignition coil, which basically was an armored cable for the connection from the ignition switch to the - terminal on the coil. That design was used for many years to prevent anyone "hotwiring" the car.
Possibly the ignition switch has been changed on your car also. You can find these at swap meets from time to time - an ignition switch and coil assembly with an armored cable. The coil will have a mounting flange for installing it through the firewall, and a crimped on cap on the flat end, where the armored cable is terminated.
It really isn't very important, except for strict authenticity on a 100 point car. As for just getting the car to start and run, all you need is a 6 volt positive ground coil, mounted anywhere convenient, with the + terminal to the side terminal on the distributor, and the - terminal wired to the ignition switch "I" terminal, and of course the high voltage wire to the distributor cap.
I am not really very knowledgeable about the pre-war Packards, and I don't have a lot of reference material on them, but I'll try to help if I can with other questions you may have. The only pre-war Packard I ever did much work on was my 39 12 cylinder limousine, and that was 40 years ago!.
Good luck with your car.
Dick
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That is the wire that went to the "-" terminal on the original coil. On the original coil, that terminal was on the back of the coil, within the armored cap which stuck through the firewall toward the ignition switch. Since that coil is gone, you need to connect that wire to the "-" terminal on the new coil, which you will find on the end of the coil with the other two connections, namely the high voltage tower in the middle of the top, and the two small terminals, one of which is the "+" terminal which goes to the side of the distributor, and the other of which is the "-" terminal, which goes to a source of -6 volts to provide power to the ignition system.
I hope this is more clear than my first response.
Dick
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Yes, it certainly would!
We're having a problem communicating here.
There are 3 wires on any ignition coil:
1. The high voltage wire, which goes one place only, to the center of the distributor cap top.
2. The contact point connection, which goes one place only - to the movable contact point in the distributor, which is connected to the side terminal on the distributor. On your car, as with any positive ground car, this wire is the one from the "+" terminal on the coil.
3. The power source wire, which always goes to the ignition switch "I" terminal, the terminal that provides power to the ignition system when and only when the key is in the on positions. On your car, as with any positive ground car, this is the "-" terminal on the coil. This the the wire that was armored on the original coil -ignition switch connection - you can connect the old armored wire to the "-" terminal on the coil and that should allow the car to run, if the ignition switch is good and properly connected otherwise.
I hope I am coming through this time!
Dick
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This is strange! I responded to this a couple of days ago, and here it comes back again. Anyway, thanks for the comments. Last time, I told you all about the 48-49 Studebaker Land Cruiser I sold in the late 70s to a guy in Carlsbad - wondering if it could possibly be the same car. Is yours Pea Green?
Anyway, thanks again.
Dick
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"Body feed" is just a reference to the wire that supplies power to the various circuits used in the body (as opposed to those in the engine compartment). The lighting switch is one of those circuits that receives power from the body feed.
The body feed is connected to the negative terminal of the battery via the ammeter - it would be a quite heavy wire, probably a #10 wire.
To be more specific: the ammeter has two terminals on the back, one, probably labled "B", goes to the battery, probably the connection is actually at the terminal on the starter motor that also holds the battery "-" cable. The other terminal on the ammeter has wires which run all over the place, supplying battery power to everything in the car which uses electricity, including the one you are asking about to the lighting switch.
There is no place in the car where you would connect a wire to the chassis, unless it is a two wire device which requires a ground wire - most electrical devices in the car rely on the mechanical mounting screws to provide a ground connection. The only exception I can think of at the moment is the dome light, and even there, the ground wire is hidden behind the headliner cloth, I believe.
As you may be aware, "Y 'n' Z's Yesterdays" is a company in San Bernardino that makes up complete harnesses for old cars, and I think they have the pattern for your car. It will come with all the correct appearing wires and terminals, and complete diagrams and instructions for installing it. They are somewhat expensive, but the workmanship is superb, and you'll never have to worry about a wiring problem again, because they use wires that, while they look authentic, are actually modern materials that won't crumble with age the way the originals did.
The 49 Champion is another good car - especially in these days of $3 a gallon gasoline. Those cars, in good shape, with overdrive, will give a Honda Civic a close match in gas mileage!
Dick
AnswerPerhaps the best thing to do, to avoid an error, is for you to FAX me a copy of the wiring diagram you are working from. It should have all the information you need, but I'll look at it and try to help you interpret it.
We have discussed so many wires in this thread that I am concerned I may not understand which wire you are referring to with this particular question.
It is true, the source of all power to everything in the car is the terminal on the starter that holds one end of the battery cable which comes from the negative post of the battery. This is a large terminal, with a 9/16 or 5/8 inch nut on it, which holds many wires in a stack.
My FAX number is 775 406 3790
Dick
