Classic/Antique Car Repair: electric fuel pump, electric fuel pump, lincoln capri


Question
I have a 1955 Lincoln Capri with 45,250 miles on it.  Because it gets hard to start after sitting, I added an electric fuel pump (I thought that it was a Bendix but forgot to look when I fixed it).  I saw what looked like the same pump but with a gadget on top on the web that was advertised as a Walbro.  Anyway, this pump was purchased in 1997.  After 4,000 miles it has worked fine.  Then in August 1995, I had to hammer on the pump many times to get home.  When I got home I cleaned the points with emery cloth and it worked well again.  Last night I was left stranded at the entrance to the Graffiti Night Cruise in town.  I managed to get the pump off again cleaned the points, and began the cruise.  I have 2 questions for you: are the points getting dirty because it is connected to a positive ground system?  Will it help to isolate the pump and make it negative ground?  The second question is about the points.  I had just finished sanding the points in my hot tub motor, when I went online to read the service manual for the motor.  The manual stated that the points should not be sanded or filed because they were not coated like ignition points are and that sanding will accelerate point wear.  Does this warning apply to this type of pump?  Is there another type of 6 volt electric pump available that doesn't use points?  I have seen solid state types that are for 12 volts, but haven't seen 6 volt types.  Thanks  

Answer
Unfortunately, this is the common story with these pumps - I have one on my 47 Packard, same brand, it has also gotten very balky after about 15 years of use. I only use mine for starting, not running, so it has actually seen only a few minutes of running in all the years it has been on the car, but it is also acting the same way.  The previous one was identical, but had the old Bendix/DuPree name on it - it also lasted about 15 years (I've had the car since 1967!).    I think Walbro must have bought the rights to the design. The previous one lasted about 15 years and then started the same balkiness - I finally threw it away because it began to leak also. I think I got both of those from NAPA stores.

Unfortunately, the newer, smaller, electronic, nearly silent, long lasting type which is now available for 12 volt cars is not made for 6 volt cars, probably because there is not enough voltage to operate the transistor circuitry required. At least I have not been able to locate one either.  I really like those, and have them on 4 of my 12 volt cars - but that's no help to you!

The polarity is not the problem, the voltage is not high enough to cause any sensitivity to polarity. The problem is that the points are just not built to take the punishment for very long, and they probably didn't bother with arc suppression techniques such as are used with ignition points (that's a guess on my part).

If you are using it as your only fuel pump, I suggest you go back to the original mechanical fuel pump for normal driving, and only use the electric pump for starting when the car hasn't been driven for a while, to save wear and tear on the starter - that's the way I do it and it is very successful - even though I do have to replace the electric pump every so many years.

Good luck- that's a beautiful car.  

Off the subject (I don't hear from 55 Lincoln owners very often!), if you happen to have the ancient SIA magazine article from the 70s in which they did a comparison side by side drive with the 4 major luxury cars of 1955, the Packard they used was my 55 (Lic. no JHR 040, shows in the trunk picture), then owned by a friend of mine.  Did you know there was a move afoot to buy the lincoln body dies for use on the 1957 Packard (which instead turned out to be a gussied up Studebaker President)?

Anyway, I wish I could give you a magic solution, but I don't think there is one.

Dick