QuestionIs there a tool that will remove a rusted on brake drum eaiser than loosening the auto adjuster and hammering to get it off? some type of device that would clamp down to the outside edges and then appling pressure to the center to remove drum if so where can I get one ?
AnswerI wish you had told me what kind of car you are working on, because there are different types of drum removers for different cars.
I'm going to make the assumption that you are working on a car that has a large nut in the center of the brake drum, with a cotter pin to keep the nut from loosening.
If this is the case, you need to beg, borrow or steal a "hub puller". This is a tool that has 3 legs that fasten to the face of the drum with the lug nuts. There is a center bolt in the tool that presses in on the center nut (you need to leave the big nut on there, but loosen it a few turns so the drum has room to start moving off).
This center bolt has a dogbone shaped handle, it is designed to be turned by rapping with a large hammer so as to turn it in the clockwise direction.
Taking a drum off involves a lot of patience and persistence, and sometimes you need to heat the center of the drum (the hub) with a torch to break the hold of the rust that always forms between the tapered axle shaft and the cone shaped inner surface of the hub. Also, be sure to lubricate the drive threads of the tool. Very often, just building up all the force the tool can exert and then leaving the car sit overnight will cause it to suddenly "pop" loose during the night.
Once the rust's hold on the drum is broken, you can remove the tool and the center nut and washer, and just pull the drum off by hand.
Some rental yards still have these tools, and Snap-On still sells them. There are cheap ones around too, but the cheap ones usually break before you get the drum off.
When you are putting the drum back on, make sure the inside cone of the drum and the tapered end of the axle shaft is clean and dry. Don't be tempted to lubricate it, because they are designed to be assembled dry, and will crack if lubricated. The tightenting torque is very high, typically 150 foot pounds or more, but since I don't know what car you are working on, I can't tell you exactly. It must be mighty tight, or else there will be a "creak" noise every time you begin to accelerate away from a stop.
If I have guessed wrong as to which type of axle end you are working with, post a follow up questions and I'll try again.
Dick
