Classic/Antique Car Repair: Manifold gaskets, measuring ruler, manifold gaskets

Question
Hi again Dick:

I am having trouble with my 29 model A ford manafold it keeps leaking.
I had it resurfaced when I put in the rebuilt engine and once sence then.  Just befor I put it away for the winter I noticed it leaking again this time I noticed a ear was broken on the intake I got another and had it resurfaced and am about to instll it  I thought that maby I was puting the gasket on backwards or something  
I have a one pice metal clad gasket.  doed the metal go twards the engine or the manifold?

I was reading in the book and it didn't say whitch way it went but it did say put on the two gaskets and tork eavenly, Does this mean two gaskets or are they talking about the two pice gaskets?
I know this is lingthy guiss I am just windy/
Thanks

Bill

Answer
There is no absolute rule as to which way the gasket goes on, the manufacturer of the gasket usually stamps the part number on the gasket so that you can read the information off it when it is on the block, so that would mean the metal side goes toward the manifold.

The two gasket business is a mystery to me - maybe they are talking about those cars which have two gaskets (like for a V8?), but that's just a guess.  I think the person who wrote the instructions probably just screwed up.  

Before you install the new manifold, take a real good look at how straight and flat the block surface is.  If you have a perfect straight edge, like on a precision metal measuring ruler or something like that, make sure that there is no warpage of the block where the manifold goes on.  

Another way to do this is to get a brand new flat sharpening stone, like you would use to sharpen a knife, and squirt it with WD-40 so it is wet, and then use it to polish the block surface all over the area where the manifold bolts on - this will show up any "high" spots right away, and show you where to keep rubbing with the stone until the block is perfectly flat.    Then wash off all the grit and WD-40 with something like lacquer thinner to make sure it is really all gone and bone dry.

Then, get a can of spray aluminum paint, and coat both sides of the gasket with it before you put it on.  Then, while the paint is still wet, bolt everything together.  Tighten the bolts finger tight, then tighten each one 1/2 turn at a time, one by one, until they are all up to the torque spec.   Then let the whole thing set overnight before you start the engine.

When you do start the engine, let it warm up, then turn it off, let it cool for at least an hour, and re-check the torque on all the bolts one more time.

Maybe, it will hold this time!  I sure hope so.

Good luck,

Dick