QuestionQUESTION: I have a 2000 Dodge Neon ES with ABS - all stock. Fuse #10 in the fuse box on the left of the dash blows when I start the engine. The engine actually starts but then the fuse blows. I drove over a small ditch in a field while parking at a country fair. The car seemed ok and I parked it. Now it keeps blowing fuse 10. Fuse 10 operates LDP ABS, PTU SOL, ENG RLYS, and ENG MOD. Clearly I think I jarred something loose but where do I start looking?
I have the Hayes Repair Manual for 2000 to 2003 Dodge Neon and I looked at the electrical diagrams in the back. But fuse 10 shows up on the "Heating and air conditioning system" page. So I don't see how it relates to:
LDP (lead detection pump, part of the evaporative emission system, a pump connected to the charcoal canister via a vacuum hose),
ABS (antilock break system),
PTU SOL (part throttle unlock solenoid, which is the control for the torque converter that either unlocks or locks the two vanes of the unit for reasons of gas economy),
ENG RLYS (engine relays, several important electrical control switches),
ENG MOD (engine module, probably the actual control module for the engine).
Appreciate some suggestions.
ANSWER: Hi John,
The fuse 10 in the Haynes may be referring to the #10 fuse in power distribution center under the hood which operates the rear window defogger.
The #10 in the cabin does indeed power the devices you listed via a dark blue/white wire:
leak detection pump (under the car near the rear stabilizer bar bracket to the left of center),
power train control module, torque converter clutch solenoid (on the transmission near the front bell housing), relays (radiator fan, fuel pump, ac compressor clutch, all in the power distribution center), controller antilock brake (low, near the left strut tower).
You could test the resistance to ground as shown on the downsteam side of the fuse socket and it should show a short to ground if the fuse is blowing. Then you could go to all those devices listed and watch for which one, when removed, causes the resistance to rise to a few ohms or more. That would be the device or wire that is damaged. Try shaking the harness to each device while a helper watches the ohmmeter. Notice for damage to the harness to the devices.
Let me know how this works out for you.
Please 'rate' my answer (see below).
Thanks,
Roland
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QUESTION: This is helpful but I don't see your procedure works. The ohm meter should show 0 if no short but high if there is a short.
Should I just look for frayed wires at each device? Which ones first? The ones under the car that may have been damaged when I ran over the ditch?
BTW, the Hayes Manual page which I included in my first post says #10 on the "Fuse Block" which I believe is the one in the car. The "Power Distribution Center" is noted on some of their electrical diagrams but I think that is the one under the hood.
ANSWER: Hi John,
The ohmmeter when set up to measure resistance to ground in the case of a short is 0 ohms. You may have been thinking of current to ground which of course would be high when there is a short.
Yes, I would check the harnesses that are accessible from under the car, first. Probably the ABS and LDP are the most likely. Then if you can't find any damage take it item by item using the ohmmeter to notice when by shaking each harness you have removed the short. Of course the short may have nothing to do with that particular history and could be a component in one of those circuits has failed by chance. The Haynes manual is apparently in error as to the #10 cabin fuse's purpose.
Please 'rate' my answer. Thanks,
Roland
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QUESTION: Roland
Finally got the Neon home and started checking it out. The ditch episode pushed the lower cross support member into the ECM bracket trapping the wires that go to the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid I managed to push the member back enough to free the wires and although the covering was damaged so that I could see the 3 wires, they do not appear damaged (i.e., severed or bare). I replaced the fuse and the car started and runs without blowing the fuse. Hurray! But, the engine light is on and I am getting a P0743 code. See detail below re code. So maybe one (or more) of the wires in the TCC wire harness is broken though the wires look ok.
Anyway, long story short, what damage can I do by driving it this way with the TCC not working correctly? Of course, I will still have to get this fixed in order to pass the annual vehicle inspection in Virginia.
Tks
John
P0743 DODGE DescriptionThe Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) solenoid valve is activated, with the gear in D4, by the Transmission Control Module (TCM) in response to signals sent from the vehicle speed and the Engine Control Module (ECM). Lock-up piston operation will then be controlled. When the torque converter clutch solenoid valve is activated, the torque converter lockup clutch will engage creating a 1 to 1 RPM ratio between the transmission input shaft and the rotational speed of the torque converter.
AnswerHi John,
If the wires (dark blue/white, orange/black) for the TCC are not shorted any longer then the code is probably stale. If you disconnect the battery for a minute or so the code should erase and turn off the check engine light. Otherwise, look over the wiring more carefully for a short in the harness that was damaged.
As long as the TCC is not locked in the 'on' position there is no problem driving without it working properly until you can sort out the wiring problem. If it was locked 'on' then you wouldn't be able to drive it because it would be like driving a stick shift car with the clutch inoperable. Because you could drive it home suggests that is not the situation.
Please 'rate' my answer (see below).
Thanks,
Roland
