Dodge Repair: 2000 Dodge 2500 A/c problems, poor vacuum, vacuum test


Question
For the last few days my A/c has been acting up.  A few months ago I recharged my system with a gauge and everything has been fine.  Recently when I turn the a/c on max, air only comes out of the defrost vents.  I repeatedly turn the a/c on and off until it eventually comes out of the dash vents.  And, it is warm air when it does come out and every so often it will get cool for a few minutes and then return to warm air.  Compressor kicks on but not real sure what the problem is.  By the way, it is a diesel.  Not sure if that helps or not.

Answer
I live in the Atlanta area if u need me I will look at it for u.
VACUUM SYSTEM
Vacuum control is used to operate the mode doors in the heater-only and heater-A/C housings. Testing of the heater-only and heater-A/C mode control switch operation will determine if the vacuum, electrical, and mechanical controls are functioning. However, it is possible that a vacuum control system that operates perfectly at engine idle (high engine vacuum) may not function properly at high engine speeds or loads (low engine vacuum) This can be caused by leaks in the vacuum system, or by a faulty or improperly installed vacuum check valve.

A vacuum system test will help to identify the source of poor vacuum system performance or vacuum system leaks. Before starting this test, stop the engine and make certain that the problem is not a disconnected vacuum supply tube at the engine vacuum source or the vacuum reservoir.

Use an adjustable vacuum test set (Special Tool C-3707) and a suitable vacuum pump to test the heater-A/C vacuum control system. With a finger placed over the end of the vacuum test hose probe
Adjust Vacuum Test Bleed Valve , adjust the bleed valve on the test set gauge to obtain a vacuum of exactly 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) Release and block the end of the probe several times to verify that the vacuum reading returns to the exact 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting. Otherwise, a false reading will be obtained during testing


VACUUM CHECK VALVE
Remove the vacuum check valve. On gasoline engines, one valve is located in the vacuum supply tube (black) at the intake manifold tap on the right side of the engine. A second check valve is located next to the tee fitting in the vacuum supply tube (black) near the dash panel in the engine compartment. On diesel engines, the vacuum check valve is integral to the engine vacuum pump nipple and is threaded into the vacuum pump. The vacuum check valve must be removed in order to perform the following tests. See Vacuum Check Valve in the Removal and Installation section of this group for the procedures.
Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the heater-A/C control side of the valve. When connected to this side of the check valve, no vacuum should pass and the test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting. If OK, go to step Step 3. If not OK, replace the faulty valve.
Connect the test set vacuum supply hose to the engine vacuum side of the valve. When connected to this side of the check valve, vacuum should flow through the valve without restriction. If not OK, replace the faulty valve.
HEATER-A/C CONTROLS
Connect the test set vacuum probe to the heater-A/C vacuum supply (black) tube in the engine compartment. Position the test set gauge so that it can be viewed from the passenger compartment.
Place the heater-A/C mode control switch knob to each mode position, one position at a time, and pause after each selection. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting shortly after each selection is made. If not OK, a component or vacuum line in the vacuum circuit of the selected mode has a leak. See Locating Vacuum Leaks in the Diagnosis and Testing section of this group
CAUTION: Do not use lubricant on the switch ports or in the holes in the plug, as lubricant will ruin the vacuum valve in the switch. A drop of clean water in the connector plug holes will help the connector slide onto the switch ports.

LOCATING VACUUM LEAKS
WARNING: ON VEHICLES EQUIPPED WITH AIRBAGS, REFER TO GROUP 8M - PASSIVE RESTRAINT SYSTEMS BEFORE ATTEMPTING ANY STEERING WHEEL, STEERING COLUMN, OR INSTRUMENT PANEL COMPONENT DIAGNOSIS OR SERVICE. FAILURE TO TAKE THE PROPER PRECAUTIONS COULD RESULT IN ACCIDENTAL AIRBAG DEPLOYMENT AND POSSIBLE PERSONAL INJURY.

Disconnect the vacuum harness connector located between the heater-A/C control and the heater-A/C housing under the instrument panel.
Connect the test set vacuum hose probe to each port in the heater-A/C housing half of the vacuum harness connector, one port at a time, and pause after each connection Vacuum Circuit Test The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty heater-A/C control. If not OK, go to step Step 3.
Determine the vacuum line color of the vacuum circuit that is leaking. To determine the vacuum line colors, see the Vacuum Circuits chart Vacuum Circuits
Disconnect and plug the vacuum line from the component (fitting, actuator, valve, switch, or reservoir) on the other end of the leaking circuit. Instrument panel disassembly or removal may be necessary to gain access to some components. See the Removal and Installation section of this group for more information.
Connect the test set hose or probe to the open end of the leaking circuit. The test set gauge should return to the 27 kPa (8 in. Hg.) setting shortly after each connection is made. If OK, replace the faulty disconnected component. If not OK, go to Step 6.
To locate a leak in a vacuum line, leave one end of the line plugged and connect the test set hose or probe to the other end of the line. Run your fingers slowly along the line while watching the test set gauge. The vacuum reading will fluctuate when your fingers contact the source of the leak. To repair the vacuum line, cut out the leaking section of the line. Then, insert the loose ends of the line into a suitable length of 3 millimeter (0.125 inch) inside diameter rubber hose.