Honda Repair: sputtering and running very lean and sometimes dies, obd 2 scanner, cold air intake

Question
I have a 98 Accord EX v6(J30a1) with a cold air intake and a greddy cat-back ehaust. Last Wed. I drove the car to class, came back and let it sit for the rest of the day. the next day drove my sisters car to class came back tried to go to work and the car would turn over but would not start. i had been having problems with the fuel pump main relay not turning the fuel pump on. i replaced the relay and tried starting the car and it wouldnt start the first time, tried it again and it struggled to get up to 1100rpm for warm up. after i let it sit for a minute, i tried backing it out of the garage and it would die everytime i pressed the gas. my A/F gauge was tacked out at lean during this. i was told that it was my fuel pump going out aswell so i replaced it and FPR and cleaned the fuel rails, all 6 injectors and all the fuel lines. the car dosnt sputter at idle when you give it gas but as soon as you put it in gear and give it gas it will either die or sputter to go anywhere, but when you do git it to go somewhere the gauge still reads lean then will shoot to stoich then to lean just at regular driving but when you demand more out of the car the gauge shoots to lean, when before this started happening the A/F mixture would shoot to rich when you asked for more out of the car. people are now telling me its my computer and before i go spend $500-$1000 on a new computer i would like to know if ive missed something or over looked something because this is the first time i havent been able to pin-point what the problem is.

Answer
Charlie, when the car fails for you try and get a reading of the check engine codes. Or check the stored check engine codes that may or may not be in the computers registry. A good OBD-2 scanner will do this for you or take it to AutoZone for a scan and clear. Kinda hard to evaluate this at AutoZones parking lot though due to the frequency of the issue at hand, but, might work for you. Scanners run from $75-$500. So it is up to you but this could save you money in the future with tow bills, shop repairs, etc. so might pay for itself.

I wouldn't go with the ECU failing as of yet. I think there could be a cheaper an easier fix to your problem that the ECU is telling you when the problem occurs. Perhaps another relay or sensor. You must cause the car to re-create the problem, evaluate the code, go from there.

Another idea would be to borrow a friends ECU and see if the problem persists. This will help you decide whether the ECU is at fault or not. Or purchase a used ECU. If you have a laptop there are diagnostic programs that will allow you access to the car through the OBD-2 port in the car and allow for additional tuning and diagnostics but, these are spendy.