Hyundai Repair: Transmission Shifting/Engine light, transmission control module tcm, transmission control module


Question
Thanks. I had my car towed into the local King Bear shop. The mechanic called and stated after diagnosis that the check engine light was ignition-related (don't remember the code #'S). Upon inspection they found water in the spark plug tubes where the ignition coils are seated. He said that I would have to replace the coils (3 @ $209 each), the MAF sensor ($368), a wire set ($83), plugs ($28) and get a full tune up. The total price is $1355.45. Does this sound credible? I have never heard of water getting into the spark plug tubes and shorting out the MAF and coils. Can't these parts simply be dried out (with replacement of the plugs)? I really don't have that type of cash and considering getting a second opinion.
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The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
Hi. I am sorry that I am in this forum but I can not find an expert in the Lexus forum ('98 ES 300). I have a question that I guess a mechanic like yourself can answer. I went through a water puddle today and now the vehicle is hesitant to shift gears, transmission feels strained when accelerating, especially 1st and 2nd. Also, engine light is on. Is this just electrical issue due to water or transmission issue. Have regularly changed fluid. Any help would really be appreciated. Thanks.
-----Answer-----
It's difficult to say what caused your problem or what the nature of the problem is without knowing the diagnostic trouble codes.  The fact that the engine lamp is on may well indicate that your transmission control module (TCM) and engine control module (ECM) have information for you regarding the problem you have with the transmission.  At this point, the first step is to read the ECM and TCM trouble codes.  

What I've recommended is pretty much generic.  Once you have the codes, depending on what they are, I may be able to tell you what they mean.  If they're manufacturer specific, you may need to consult the Lexus expert.

You can find the Lexus expert here:  http://www.allexperts.com/el/818-9/Lexus-Repair

I see that the expert only takes one question a day.  The site flips to the next day at midnight GMT.  I'm not sure where you're located, but I've discovered this translates to 7:00PM EDT or 8:00PM EST.  Once you have retrieved the codes, you might try contacting the Lexus expert just after midnight so you're his one question for the day.

You might also try asking one of the Toyota experts.  Your car is very similar to a Toyota Camry, so they'll probably be able to provide you with more specific information that me.  You can find the Toyota experts here:  
http://www.allexperts.com/el/832-9/Toyota-Repair

Regardless, you're welcome to follow-up with me.  I'll provide you whatever information and advice I can offer.

Answer
The plugs, wires, and coils are all consistent with your symptoms and what you relay the shop has reported.  It's entirely possible that the reason the transmission wasn't shifting is that you were having difficulty getting the car going fast enough for the gear changes to occur.

It's very rare for water to get into the plug tubes, however.  Usually, this only occurs after pressure washing the engine or something similar.  The wire boots typically seal the plug tubes well enough that the small amount of water that would get on top of the engine after driving through a puddle is kept out.

It's also doubtful that you need all the coils.  If all the coils were not functioning, the car wouldn't be running at all.  While it's also doubtful that you need all the plug wires and all the plugs, these items are typically replaced as sets.  I suspect the technician is selling more coils than are really required because he hasn't gone through the troubel of doing a proper diagnosis.  By the same token, I'm unable to inspect the car in person, is it's difficult for me to make a good assessment.

It's possible that the items could be dried and they'd work okay, but it's also possible that the components have been damaged by the arcing and will need to be replaced regardless.  If this were my personal vehicle, I'd try drying them out to see what happens.  If it were a customer's car, however, I'd recommend replacement.  The difference is in the expectation.  On my personal vehicle, I'd know that I'm running a risk of the vehicle not being repaired.  On the other hand, the customer expects that after he has paid money for repairs, that the same issue will not return.

Based on your report, I don't see a particular reason why the air flow sensor needs to be replaced.  Ignition trouble codes typically don't result in a diagnosis of a faulty air flow sensor.  It's possible there were other codes leading the technician to believe that you need the sensor.  Realistically, if the car is still misfiring, it's difficult to make a good diagnosis of the air flow sensor.  If water was sucked ijnto the engine's air intake, that could have caused erroneous air flow readings and in turn caused the a code for the air flow sensor to set.