QuestionI looked at the old crankshaft sensor and the sensor part that goes into the engine is in perfect condition, no apparent damage and the O ring is on it. Since the wires coming out of the old sensor were shorted together, I did check the sensor wire harness using a voltmeter to see if any thing was present there. Pin # 1 has a good continuity to ground, pin # 2 (middle one) has 5 volts and pin # 3 has 0 volts. It seems that I it does not have the 12 volts coming in on pin # 3. Maybe, it being shorted to the ground wire on the old sensor could have blown a fuse somewhere. Does the 12 volts come from the ECM? It is a pink wire. The fuses in the box on the engine compartment next to the battery are all good. I would expect that the 12 volts coming to the crankshaft connector would have a fuse somewhere. You mentioned using a oscilloscope, I do not have one, but I can borrow one. It is a Tektronix 3050, 500MHZ 2Gsamples. It has a passive probe 10X low impedance. Thanks
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Hi,
I finally replaced the crankshaft position sensor. The wire on the sensor side, opposite of the connector, had about 1.5” of its black insulation missing. The three wires going into the sensor side, were also bare, no insulation, and all twisted together like it was just one thick copper wire, shorted to each other. I installed the new sensor and the car did not start. It cranks pretty good, but will not catch on. I pulled out one of the spark plug and it was wet, smelling like gas. It seems to be injecting gas. I check for sparks coming out of the ignition coil and there were no sparks. I also check all the power fuses, in the box next to the battery and the fuses under the dashboard on the driver’s side, they are all good. The timing belt is OK, not broken, I took a pick on it was turning. It puzzles me how the sensor wire got damaged like that. I ran out of ideas of where to look for the problem.
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Hi, Thanks for your response so promptly. You were right about the removal of the crankshaft position sensor. I tried getting it out without removing the starter and the exhaust manifold, but was practically impossible. Even just moving the starter a little out of the way did not help. I will have to lift the car up to get the exhaust manifold down. I do have a follow on question. After I put everything together, reconnected the sensor to the other connector and the starter back, I started the car and it ran for about 7 minutes and it stalled. It has happened before I tried to work on it. It ran until the engine got warmed up than stall. This time it did not started again. It cranks but does not catch on.
I tried a few times and stopped. I rejected if anything else was left disconnected but did not see anything obvious. When I first looked at the sensor, before I even touch it, using a mirror, the plastic portion where the wires go into the sensor was cracked and there were pieces of wire insulation on the engine around where the sensor is. The problem with the car not starting now, could it be that the sensor is no longer making connection with the ECM or could it be something else? I another words, could the sensor being totally bad cause the car not to start?
Regards
Josee Coutinho
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Hello. I have a 2000 Hyundai sonata GLS V6. Recently my car has been installing when it is hot. The check engine light indicates to be a faulty crankshaft positioning sensor, displaying a code # P0335. I have done lots of work on several of my cars. My question is, I have not been able to locate the crankshaft positioning sensor in my sonata. I looked at the Hyundai webpage and it indicates that this senors is located on the top left part of the V6 engine, but I can not find it where the diagram indicates it should be. Can you tell me where it is located? I would greatly appreciate any help you can provide me. Thanks
Josee Reis
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You'll find it hiding in the engine block behind the starter where it's difficult to see. You can probably get it out with a 1/4" ratchet, a two inch extension, a 10mm swivel socket, many contortions, and a lot of swearing. To reduce the latter two, disconnect the battery, unbolt the front exhaust from the manifolds and lower it down, and unbolt the starter. That should give you much easier access.
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If there are no readings from the crankshaft sensor, the car definitely won't start. The computer needs this information to know when to fire the plugs and injectors.
Since it sounds like you haven't put the new sensor in yet, you should definitely start with a new sensor. If you've already done that and the car still won't start, reply back and we'll continue.
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Have a look at your old crank sensor and see if there's a rubber o-ring on it. If not, it probably stayed in the engine block, preventing the new crank sensor from being fully seated, since the new sensor comes with an o-ring on it.
If that's the case, pull the crank sensor out, stick your finger in the hole, and make sure there are no o-rings (or other debris) in the hole. Make sure there's exactly one o-ring on the new sensor and that it's not cracked before reinstalling.
Was there any physical damage to the end of the crank sensor (old or new) that is/was inside the engine? If so, you should expect that the wheel on the crankshaft that's read by the crank sensor is loose.
Based on your description, it sounds like the old sensor was bad, so I'm thinking the problem you have now is somehow related to the installation of the new sensor. If you cannot find anything wrong with the installation of the sensor, it's probably time to have the car checked professionally. You've already checked most of the basics. If you have no other codes, I'd say the next step is to manually check the crank sensor power, ground, and output, but that'll require an oscilloscope, to which I expect you won't have access.
AnswerThe pink wire should have battery voltage (with the ignition on). It's powered by the 15A EGR fuse in the underhood fuse box. Recheck that fuse to be sure it's not blown. If not, check to see if there's power in the fuse. You'll need to figure out whether you need to trace backward to what powers the EGR fuse or forward to see why the power is not getting to the sensor from the fuse.
For now, there's no point in the oscilloscope until we solve the issue with the pink wire. At this point, I'd also recommend registering for a free account at www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer). On that site, you'll be able to look at the schematics for your vehicle. Hopefully, that'll help you trace your problem without having to wait for my answers. (Of course, I'll be happy to continue to guide you and answer your questions, too). I expect that once you find and correct the issue with not receiving power at the crank sensor that the car will start and run normally.
The wire 5V (black) is the signal wire for the ECM. The ECM probably applies a bias voltage to this wire, so I wouldn't worry about this reading. The black/white wire is indeed for ground, so that one sounds okay, too.
