QuestionHT,
I wish we would have gotten your message earlier. We have already put a deposit with a local parts store to order the ECM. And I don't think they will let us return it. Anyhow, I do appreciate you getting back with us. As far as us taking to the dealer, we have about tapped our selves out financially concerning this car. So we are going to have to look for the problem ourselves. So if there is anything you can recommend as far as what wiring to check or what we should do, it would be helpful. You are about the only person that we have dealt with that seems to know anything about this car. And should we put an oxygen sensor on the car, we have checked it top to bottom even the manifold and there is no sign of one. When the car runs it runs pretty smooth when driving just when slowing down and stopping and when we stop at a stop light if we put it in drive it runs smooth. Anymore advice? THAT COULD HELP WOULD BE SO APPRECIATED!!! THANKYOU!
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Followup To
Question -
The repair shops we went to said if the diagnostics where not reading it was probably the computer located under the dash on drivers side,ECU OR ECM? And that we should consider replacing that. What do you think? And by the way does this year and make have an oxygen sensor on it, the repair manual said that some models do not and the repair people said there had to be one, be we have yet to locate one. I really appreciate you replying so fast we are in great need of getting this car fixed.
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Followup To
Question -
Was you unable to answer my last entry or did I put in the wrong place? You asked for some information from my first question about the 1993 hyundia. Is the car misfiring, no. It idles at 800rpm, and yes it feels as if someone has hit the rear of the car when coming to a stop. We tried to check the trouble codes with the analog volt meter it would not read, just kept pulsing the same pulse. We have also taken twice to have the diagnostics read and it would not read as well. Can you help?
Answer -
The additional information was placed in my feedback instead the additional information for the question. I found it and posted a follow-up to the original question, but I guess you didn't receive that. Below is a rehash of the additional information I returned.
A continuous pulse indicates there are no trouble codes stored. If your check engine lamp is still staying on, you should have a trouble code. Since you don't, I wonder if you inadvertently checked the trans feed instead of the engine feed or something. If the shop you went to was unable to get codes, you might try going to the dealer.
The fact that your car jerks when coming to a stop indicates that the idle switch or throttle cable may not be properly adjusted. You should probably clean the throttle body, verify there's a little slack in the throttle cable, and adjust the motor position sensor (idle actuator), idle switch, and throttle position sensor.
Additionally, one of the problems known to this vehicle is poor contact in a ground splice in the engine control harness. The symptoms are typically a check engine light and a stored code 15 (possibly with others). Hyundai has a very nice technical service bulletin (93-36-007) detailing where the splice is and how to repair.
Answer -
If the car runs at all, you should be able to communicate with the engine control module (ECM). The chances of a communication issue originating in the ECM if the car runs are near zero. It's much more likely that the communication issue is with the shop's scan tool, or it could be in the wiring of the vehicle. If we're to believe the pulsing you got from your test for codes, you're at least communicating with the ECM (or whatever computer you're testing). If you weren't, you wouldn't be getting the pulses. That's why I mentioned the dealer. They should be able to get to the bottom of the communication issue.
What troubles me about the recommendation for the ECM is that the shop said that you "should consider" replacing it. Language like this leads me to believe that they don't really have any idea what the problem is, and want to guess on your dime. Competent and honest repair facilities will charge you for their diagnostic time and will stand behind their diagnosis to the extent that the condition is occurring and they can run tests that pinpoint the problem.
Your car definitely has an oxygen sensor. According to the diagram in the shop manual, it's in the manifold. It's not likely to be relevant to the way your car is running, however.
AnswerIf your car lacked an oxygen sensor, this would set a trouble code in the ECM, because it'll be looking for the data from the sensor and not receiving it. I wouldn't replace the oxygen sensor simply because you've given me no information that suggests it needs to be replaced.
If your car won't run properly (for a reason other than the throttle body area adjustments), any adjustments you make on the throttle body won't be correct. If your check engine lamp is still on, you first need to find out why. Once you've got all the problems causing the check engine lamp repaired or if the check engine lamp is off, then move on to adjusting the throttle body.
My advice at this point is to start saving your money for a dealer or other very capable and reputable shop that will give you an accurate diagnosis and stand behind their diagnosis as well as the repair. I think anything you do further to the car without having a check engine diagnosis done is likely to spend more money you cannot afford and not fix your car. If you can get your money back on the ECM, I'd start with that money for getting a good diagnosis on the check engine lamp. A quick call to your local dealer should be able to get you information on how much they'll charge you for a check engine/driveability diagnosis.
