Hyundai Repair: Hyundai Accent - Diagnostics, air flow sensor, hyundai accent


Question
Make: Hyundai
Type: Accent
Year: 1/2000
Engine: 1.5 L FI (N) (SOHC)

Hello,
My wife and I each have our own Hyundai, I have a 1999 Accent and she has a 2,000 Accent. My wife's engine (warning) light came on twice already, once about 4 years ago, and once last week. Each time we took it in and they pull the codes, but can't find anything wrong, so they just reset it.

The last code reading was: P1128
something about "MFR CTR" Fuel and Air Metering.
Does "MFR" have something to do with Muffler Control?

The shop mechanics and manager couldn't find any problems with lose, broken or split hoses. Could it be something with the air flow sensor?

Finally, is there an economical tool or method I could use to reset the engine (idiot) light?
I'm tired of paying good money to have them find nothing wrong, reset the light and send us home.
Any smart options you might recommend?

Thanks!
Michael  

Answer
"'MFR CTR' Fuel and Air Metering" means that P1128 is a manufacturer defined code (P1xxx, P2xxx), not a universal code like those in the form P0xxx.  Hyundai uses this code to indicate a lean condition under partial load.

First, check your pcv hose and make sure it's not split or broken.  I've seen that cause this code.  Also check the air bellows between the air flow sensor and the throttle body to make sure it secure and not leaking anywhere.  If all that's okay, you probably (99%) need an air flow sensor.

If the shop cannot find anything wrong, they are likely either not knowledgeable enough are are not trying hard enough to find the problem.  If the lamp comes on, something is (or was) wrong.  Hyundai has a very nice technical service bulletin (01-36-022) which describes how to check the air flow sensor.  

I recommend getting a free account at www.hmaservice.com (requires Internet Explorer) and looking at the technical service bulletin yourself so you understand what should be done to check the air flow sensor.  Unfortunately, you won't be able to do this yourself because the sensor readings they give are the airflow values which are read off a scan tool.  If you can, check your pcv hose and air bellows yourself.  If the pcv hose is bad, you can replace it with standard fuel hose.  If all is okay, you should probably take your car to the dealer or a good driveability shop for diagnosis, or if you can, just replace the air flow sensor yourself.  It's not guaranteed to be the problem, but the odds are good enough that it's probably worth your while just to stick one on.  But if the shop where you took the car originally won't look at it again and actually find the problem, I'd recommend not going back there again.  In my opinion, they're simply taking your money to tell you what the code is, and they don't want to be bothered with actually checking the car to find the problem.