QuestionQUESTION: 1st, thank you for all the help you've provided others - I was able to track down part of my problems using your previous postings.
Symptoms: New (to me) 1985 XJ6 Series 3 - at time of purchase only front drivers side window worked. I was able to clean switches and get most of them working. Last switch I cleaned was front passenger side, and when I tested the switch, wiring got warm. Immediately pulled switch off wiring, and now none of the windows / sunroof work.
Steps Already Taken: Have checked all the fuse panels and no fuses are blown. A PO by-passed the Master Switch, so it is always on, and when I plug / unplug his patch, I hear a clicking, so I'm still getting electrical 'up there.' I have removed the lower panels on passenger side and ID'd where the thermal breakers and (presumably) the relay (beleive it's just behind the thermal breakers, correct (?).
Help Needed: What is best way to test if the thermal breakers / relay are defunct - (it was my understanding that a thermal breaker may eventually reset itself), and if so, suggestions on where to obtain replacement parts.
Many thanks,
Jim
ANSWER: The thermal breakers are only two wires and they either conduct current or they don't. So all you need to do is check conductivity across the two pins. As far as any tests of the window circuit just go to my web site and copy the window diagram and use that to track down any problems.
http://mg-tri-jag.net/JagWindows1x1.jpg
Howard
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Howard,
Current Status<br>Thanks. I'd already had your diagram (that's what got me so far down the path before I submitted my question!) - both thermal breakers were bad - one was completely melted, the other appeared OK, but no conductivity. A 'patch cable' verified that these were the only faulty component. <p>
Followup Question #1<br>
Do you know what the cut-out temperature those Otter thermal breakers 'kicked out' at? I've found a slew of Otter breakers, and am thinking it'll be cheaper to by-pass the dealer.<p>
Followup Question #2, #3, #4<br>
Is it 'usual' for the window relay to be slightly warm when the power is on? Noticed that last night as I was testing things. If not, is that an indicator the relay is on it's last legs? Is that relay truly a common item found at your local Auto Parts store, as I've read in some online documents / web pages?
Thanks again!
Jim
AnswerHi Jim,
As for the relay, I have at times used generic relays to replace OEM relays. All you need to do is run a test with an ammeter to see how much amperage the window motors draw, then figure that it is possible for several windows to be in operation at one time and that will give you a load figure of a relay. It is only the amp load of a relay that will tell you if a proposed relay will work. The pin numbers are universal. This amperage rating will also allow you to guess at a figure for the thermal breakers too as they are rated by amperage not temperature. I have not found any rate for the relay nor the breakers but you might look on the breakers to see if a rate is written. You may also try to ease the load on the window motors by spraying silicone into all the window tracks. It is unusual for a thermal breaker to burn out as they usually reset themselves after a short time. A thermal breaker is nothing more than a fuse that resets itself. So you can just put an inline fuse in place of a bad breaker. I would guess a 35 to 50 amp fuse would do.
Howard
