QuestionHi John!
I just purchased my first 2000 LR Disco Series II SD (71,000 miles) - a rookie at best. I am replacing rotors and pads. I have also rebuilt the RF caliper and will do the LF caliper next. Do you have a good procedure for bleeding the brake lines on a 2000 LR Series II SD?
Thank for your help and Merry Christmas
Terry McIntyre
AnswerHi Terry,
Merry Christmas!
I think the general concensus on brake bleeding is to start with the longest lines (from the ABS not the Master Cylinder) and move to the shortest. The longest lines are in the back, then move to the front lines.
A fellow LR owner, Scot, wrote the following and it does make sense:
"Go get a bleeder kit, preferably with the bag setup, and bleed your brakes properly. This SHOULD get all air out of your system, including whats in the ABS. Start from the caliper furthest away from the ABS unit (not the master cylinder, since the ABS is inbetween and adds length into the system) and start bleeting.
This is done by putting an air tight connection between the caliper bleed nipple and a container of some sort using a properly sized clear hose. With someone in the truck, they should press the brake pedal while you slowly open the nipple (bleed screw) until fluid starts to come out. If the fluid is coming out slowly, open it a slight bit more until it comes out fairly easily, but only open it to that point and no further. When the person in the truck gets to the bottom, close the nipple (just close, not he-man tight or anything) and then let the brake lever come up. This will suck fluid into the lines from the MC and not allow anything in the line attached to the caliper to return.
Repeat until the fluid is clear and no bubbles float up (might take longer than just getting it clear for the bubbles to stop as you are forcing them through the sytem).
When you are done torque to manufacturer specs. Make sure the cup/bag or whatever you are using is ABOVE the brakes so the air bubbles float up easily, otherwise you run the risk of having bubbles return or be captures in the caliper.
Every 5-6 presses refill the MC container (a third friend really helps here.) The first caliper will take vastly more work than the rest. Figure on this taking an hour or maybe an hour and a half.
Valvolene dot4 "synthetic" is a good fluid and lasts pretty well. Stay AWAY from ATE super blue or other racing fluids. While they work extremely well, they are not designed to have an extended use life. The normal stuff you find at Advance Auto or whatever does not have this issue."
Terry, it's important to take your time bleeding this vehicle. Problems with the ABS are very common and the actual causes range from failed ABS modulators to over-reacting wheel sensors. Who knows is air in line, MC or ABS could also be a cause for concern.
Scot closed with the following advice:
"When you are all said and done if you want that last 2% of improvement, somehow rig a board between the seat and the brake so it presses the pedal down. Leave it there for a day or so. The theory goes air bubbles in the MC will be able to "float up" to the MC while under pressure. Then a few pumps later the air bubbles come up and into the MC container and are released to atmosphere. I dont know if the theory is correct, but it does seem to work".
Best of luck,
JohnMc
