MG Car Repair: 1976 Wont turn over, spark plug leads, starter solenoid


Question
QUESTION: I changed the points, rotor, condenser on my car this week. I also changed the starter solenoid since I noticed that one of the fixed terminals broke off of it. Now, even though the engine cranks, it won't turn over and I don't get a spark from either the spark plug leads or coil leads to ground. With the points open, I get 12 volts to ground off of the positive lead to ground when the ignition switch is turned. When I reattach the positive lead to the coil, I get only 5 volts to ground when I turn the key again. The car was idling rough before all the work was done and finally refused to turn over. Please help.  Scott

ANSWER: Hi Scott,
It sounds like you have more than one problem so you must work on one at a time to correct them.
First, the car can not operate with one of the pins broken off of the starter solenoid.
As for the points replacement you may have installed them wrong. You need a 12v test light or a volt meter to test your installation.
Remove the cap and rotor and turn the engine until the points cam opens the contact points. Check the gap to be .015". Then turn on the ignition key (not start position) Take your test light or volt meter and check for power on the post of the coil that has the white w/black tracer wires on it. You should have 12+ volts or a bright light with the test light.
Turn the ignition OFF and turn the engine until the points are closed. Turn the ignition key back on. Then repeat the previous tests. You should have NO voltage nor a test light light. Don't leave the key on long as you may damage the coil and points.
Let me know,
Howard

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QUESTION: Thanks for the quick response Howard! Wow! Anyway, I did check the voltage with a meter at the positive terminal with the points open and I got about 5 volts but as I said before, when I removed the wire from the terminal, I got 12 volts from the wire to ground. I am now also questioning the wiring of my relay as I don't see any white wire with a red tracer on it as seen on schematic. I do have a loose black wire with a purple tracer just "hanging out" by the relay. Please help!

ANSWER: Scott, you need to work on ONE item at a time and forget the others until you have the ONE fixed.
You said you tested the positive side of the coil with the points OPEN. I told you to test the post with the white with a black tracer wires on them. You mean that you have the white w/black tracers on the positive side of the coil??? That can not be!!! because the only way you can have the white w/black tracer wires on the positive side of the coil is to have a positive ground car and you can't have a positive ground car with an alternator and all 76 cars had alternators.
THE ONLY WAY YOU CAN FIX ELECTRICAL PROBLEMS IS TO FIX ONE CIRCUIT AT A TIME!!!!! FORGET THE REST UNTIL YOU GET THE ONE FIXED (POINTS TO POWER SUPPLY)
Howard

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QUESTION: OK. The white wire with black tracer IS on the negative side. I get no voltage either when the points are open or closed. Now what? Thanks again.

Answer
When the points are open and the key on you should have full battery voltage on the negative post (white w/black tracer wires)
The fact that you don't indicates you have a dead short to ground and since you just installed points, this is the most likely place to look. To prove this, just unplug the white w/black tracer wire from the distributor and test again. If you now have battery voltage at the negative post, then it confirms the points are at fault.

Lucas points come as separate pieces and must be assembled in the correct order. Install the points plate first over the pin first (if you have a set of components) (if these are the later version the contact arm is pre mounted on a tube). The points spring mounts on a peg but a hat shaped insulator must go on the pin first and the spring fits over the hat so the spring must never make contact with the pin. Then the condenser lead and the pig tail lead go on the pin against the spring and the second hat shaped insulator slides into the two wires and into the spring keeping them from contacting the threaded pin. Now a washer goes on the pin and the nut. When you are finished, the spring must be in contact with the two wires but must not contact the pin itself.
Let me know,
Howard