QuestionQUESTION: I have a 76 Midget, It has a 1275 put into it. The car has undergone some
different wiring over the years--it came off a military base; sat unused for
years & started occasionally. I recently bought the car and have started
rebuilding the car. I just finished the carbs because I thought a starting
problem was fuel & pistons in the carbs were seized. However, I now believe
it is ignition. I was turning the car over and noticed a loose connection off
the ignition lead (from tumbler) because my electronic fuel pump was cutting
on and off. I have bought a new ignition switch for the car and I am fixing a
lead that looked like insulation was melted and perhaps was grounding. This
lead when to the fuel pump. The car will turn over (the starter is sticking I
think because there is a loud wizzing noise). The real problem is it will only
keep running if i hold the key in the start position. As soon as i let it go, it
dies immediately...no sputtering or anything. What could this be ? Thanks
ANSWER: Hi Jon-George,
You need to test the hot side of the coil with a test light or volt meter to see if it has power when the key id released back to the "Run" position. Let me know,
Howard
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QUESTION: The hot side has power in run position as well. Note: tried to get going this
morning--I just changed the ignition switch. Would not fire--this time it did
not run when key was held in start like before. It would turn, a couple
sputters occasionally--and a couple times nothing. I did notice this time I
had some fuel excess coming out of over-flows on carb bowls. Note, I had
replaced the float on that side with the "new-style" replacement float. It was
all plastic-type with no metal adjuster lever for float height like my old type. I
still have the old style which can be re-installed.
Fuel? Spark? Confused. Jon-G
ANSWER: When you suspect fuel flooding you need to pull a couple of spark plugs to see if it is wetting the plugs just after trying to start the engine. An over amount of fuel will not ignite by spark.
The new all plastic float was used in MGs and is ok if you check the float level (as I remember the setting was a 1/8" plate slipped in between the top of the float and the top cover just as the float closed the needle)and if you went to the trouble of putting in a new float, why didn't you put in a new needle and seat?
All of this must be corrected BEFORE you try to restart.
Howard
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QUESTION: I pulled the all plastic type out--replaced with original as one of the plastic floats (new type) was filling with gas (carb closest to driver). Must have been a deflective float. Good question about the needle and seat--I examined the needle and seat at assembly; did not notice any ridging and re-used. Perhaps I should have just done it. After re-fitting the float--car gave a sputter or two at ignition. I pulled the plugs--wet. I re-started with my plugs clean and fuel pump off--only the amount of fuel left in the bowls. The car ran for about 20 seconds then died. Couple times I noticed if and when i engaged my fuel pump (on a toggle) it would kill the idle and die. If I repeated with just fuel in bowl, pump off--It ran and when tryed to give throttle--seemed to want to die. I am guessing flooding too. Either my floats are still set wrong (used drill bit 1/8) or something else? Jet too rich? The carb furtherest from driver is set mid-way and the carb near driver set down low. What is confusing is (needle in bowl seems not to stick) tried placing assembled float and top in cup with fluid to check function--but when assembled keep over flowing out of carb on that same side carb with jet setting down (closest to driver). These are twin HS2's>>from what I can see.
I hate to be a bother; just don't know anyone who can help and manuals seem to not be helping. You help will be much appreciated.
AnswerIt all boils down to the fact that if the carb is flooding, the fuel comes out the overflow. I have seen needle and seats that looked good but would still flood. With the float top off I would draw the air out of the fuel port by mouth and move the needle up to close it and you should be able to easily hold the needle closed with what vacuum you can pull. If you can't hold the needle closed it is probably leaking and needs replacing.
Your statement; "the car ran for about 20 sec then died" with the pump turned off sounds correct.
You must stop the flooding first, then you can adjust the mixture.
Let me know when you have the flooding fixed and I will tell you how to adjust mixture.
Howard
