Mitsubishi Repair: IDLE and Clutch, clutch fluid, clutch system

Question
I have bled my slave cylinder so many times and bought a new slave cylinder and master cylinder and clutch and I have tried every known thing to get it to work right but it won't bleed right or just won't work right. I know theirs a bolt on the back of the master cylinder that can be adjusted but I have no idea as to where it has to be on the back of the cylinder itself, I just put a new motor in my 93 eclipse GS 2.0ltr  non-turbo 5 speed stick, and I need the clutch to work right in order to drive it right, I have to pump the clutch pedal to get it to let me ingage the gears,,,... Please help me if you can..... Also once I start to drive my car it wants to idle at about 3500rpm and it will fluxuate just a little lower and then go right back up even when I have it in neutral. Do you know what can cause this problem? Maybe a sensor? Again please help I just got it out of the garage and I need to drive it badley. Oh and My timing belt broke on it and it bent 2 valves  so I replaced the motor, thats the repair history.... thanks alot

Answer
Joe,
Here's my quick procedure for bleeding my clutch.  I had a helper pump the clutch 3 times. I opened the bleeder while it squirted out and then closed it. Repeated a bunch of times to flush the system. Check the master reservoir to make sure it does not go empty. If it does air gets in and wastes your time.

Finally, do the pump again and close the bleeder the best you can. Tighten it with a box end wrench. Pump the clutch and it should be stiff. Inspect the slave boot for leaks as well as the inside of the firewall under the dash. That is where the master cylinder likes to leak.  Because your clutch system is not that big (not much distance in the tubes), a little bit of air can cause lots of clutch issues.  Be sure you're also using the standard DOT3 brake fluid as your clutch fluid.

For your high idle, that usually indicates you have unmeasured air entering your intake.  Check all your hoses for leaks.  Also check your Idle Air Control (IAC) motor and your Throttle Position Sensor (TPS).  If you have a service manual for your car, it will tell you how to test them.  You may also want to pull your throttle body assembly off your car and check it for any cracks.  Make sure the throttle plate completely closes.  For an easy check, remove the throttle cable (and cruise control cable if so equipped) from your throttle body.  This will ensure your throttle plate is completely closed while the car is idling.  If your idle returns to normal (about 800 rpm @ normal operating temperature), then you simply need to ease up on the tension of your throttle cable.
Good luck!