Motorcycle Repair: Front master cylinder Harley 94 FLSTN, cylinder bore, corrision

Question

Cap and bore drawing Mike  I purchased a 1994 FLSTN that already had an aftermarket chrome front master on it.  I have done many upgrades to the bike, one was fatter bars but they still have the one inch circumference for the hand controls and master.  So the brake lever was not springing back,  it stayed loose but still pumped the fluid and the brake light went on and off.  Now the brake light stays on, due to the contact ball on the side of the switch not being pressed in by the tension of the lever.  ( I can make the brake light go off by pushing the lever all the way out with the back of my fingers).  Supposedly the master in front was rebuilt.  LAst night I tore it a part and all looks fine but the cup sticks inside the cylinder wall when pushed in by finger.  The spring does not push it back, and thats just the cup, no piston is pushed in.  When putting the cup on the end of the spring and pushing it in it does not spring back but sticks because the cup had to be worked from side to side to get it to fit into the cylinder bore.  Is that suppose to be that snug? The piston has the o ring around it, I would think that is what has to be snug not to keep the fluid in, not the cap. Also my little push rod tip that goes into the brake lever, was a bit bent.  I purchased another rebuild kit just in case.  What does the cap do exactly?  Is this too snug? ( there was no fluid in the cylinder while I was checking for proper operation)  If not than why is my spring not returning my lever?  Thanks Kip

Answer
Its not suppose to be that snug. It is suppose to move hte rubber plunger. You should get a new cup with the rebuild kit. Before putting it all the way together, check to make sure nothing is to tight
You can also lightly hone the sylinder where the cap goes to make sure there is not any corrision sticking to the sides
Good luck and happy riding
Mike