QuestionQUESTION: how do I clean something between the needle and the seat in the carb? do I have to take the hole thing out to clean? It is leaking gas from the carb facing out on the left side.
ANSWER: If they are anything like the carbs on my Hondas you might be able to clear the float valve without taking the carb assembly out. The fact that it is one of the outside carbs will make it a lot easier.
You will need to remove the float bowl. Turn the petcock to off and open the drain screw for the problem carb. There will be 3 or 4 philips head screws holding the float bowl on that you need tu unscrew. You might need to be creative with your screwdriver to get them all to turn - the last time I did this was on a CX650 and I had to use a 1/4" hex philips screwdriver bit in a 1/4" socket on a 1/4" drive ratchet to get at the inside ones. If they have been in there a long time and are corroded you may have to take the carbs off in order to get an impact driver at them after all.
Once you get the float bowl off, remove the float hinge pin and the float & needle. Usually whatever is keping the needle from seating falls out at this point but I prefer to wipe it out with a cotton swab and some methanol or carb cleaner anyway and maybe have a look at it with a small mirror to make sure. Before you reassemble it make sure the tip of the needle is in good condition. I heard recently of someone with similar symptoms finding the rubber tip of the needle in the bottom of the float bowl - he reattached it and the problem was solved.
Please let me know if this solves your problem.
---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------
QUESTION: Dued!! it worked.I sealed the tank and the sealant is flaking off into the carb. Anyway....I did exactly what you said and it worked.I took it for a test drive and it seems sluggish. I want more response from the throtal. Do you think all of the carbs are clogged with that stuff. I had to keep the choke up all the way to keep it from dying.
AnswerIt could well be through the whole rack of carbs. The only thing you can do is pull the carbs and go through them with a spray can of carb cleaner followed by compressed air through every passage.
I'm not sure if yours do, but some carbs have small, fine screens in the fuel tracts that can also become clogged. (Not all models' carbs have them - my GL1000 does, my CX650 doesn't.)
If you don't already have a shop manual you should get at least one, but I recommend 2 different ones so that if you don't understand what one says you will probably figure it out from the other one. The Factory Shop Manual is the best and I wouldn't be surprised if you found somewhere online where you can download it for free.
A good manual should have instructions on rebuilding the carbs and which jets &c go where. Take your time and take one carb apart at a time (so the parts don't get mixed up and you can look at a known correct one for reference if you get confused) Don't separate them from their bracket unless you absolutely have to.
This is why I don't recommend coating your own tank. For about what you paid for the kit you could have had a rad repair shop do it for you. They have worked with the chemicals before and are familiar with how to prep the tank and how to flush it afterward. They deal with the smell & mess of the coating and clean up any mess.
The tank on my CX650 was done in '03 and shows no signs of flaking or peeling.
The only thing I can suggest to stop the flakes from continuing to escape the tank is to take it to a rad shop and see if they can re-coat it to keep the kit coating in place.
