QuestionBill,
I took the point plate off and checked the spark advancer for proper operation and that looked good. I then reset the point gap to the .014". But when I cranked the engine over by hand to see if the widest gap occured at the F mark. What I found was the widest gap occured way before the F mark almost 90 to 180 degrees before the F mark. I could not take that much error out with the movement of the point plate. Any suggustions on how to fix this problem.
By cleaning the Carb I took it apart and cleaned all valves and installed a new float valve. Also new seals.
I have to check the intake and exhaust valves yet but I have to purchase a feeler gage that has a .002" gage.
Thanks for your help so far.
Lawrence
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Followup To
Question -
Have a Honda Twinstar 185 1979. Put new points (gaped)and condenser in. Had the coil checked by Honda dealer and OK. Plugs show strong spark.Cleaned the carb. But it won't start. It seems not to be getting any fuel. (even tried starter fluid!) Help! This driving me crazy! Any advice would be helpful.
Answer -
Lawrence, try to adjust the valves, first. .002" for both intake and exhaust on the TDC compression strokes. Compression should be 170 psi.
Take the point plate back off and check the mechanical spark advancer for proper operation. Then, put the point plate back on, set gap at .014" when the points are at the widest gap while turning engine over. Then, move the point plate back and forth until they just open at the F mark alignment on the rotor/stator.
Open the drain screw on the float bowl to see if you are getting fuel or not. Float level should be 14.5mm, #105 main jet and #42 idle jet. Try checking the petcock screen, inside the fuel tank. Drain the tank, remove petcock, check the screen that is pressed up inside for blockage. Try putting some compressed air through the petcock passages in various lever positions. Everything in the fuel system MUST BE CLEAN! "Cleaned the carb" can mean spraying a little carb cleaner around inside or actually removing all the parts and cleaning each one thoroughly.
Be sure to pull the idle jet and test for flow. Some idle jets are pressed into the carb body. Either get a small strand of wire and poke down inside the jet, followed by carb cleaner spray or VERY CAREFULLY grasp the jet with some small pliers and turn/pull it out of the carb body.
Clean and reinstall gently, by tapping into place with a small plastic mallet or something similar. Be careful not to fuel foul the plugs, otherwise you will have more problems arising from fouled plugs, even new ones.
Bill Silver
AnswerLawrence, I think you have two different operations confused.
First, you establish the point gap, which is where they are the widest open. This establishes the amount of time that the points are closed to fully saturate the coil windings with electricity to create a magnetic field inside. While the gap can change the ignition timing, the point gap setting here is to set the points in a range that will allow the coil to saturate and also for the points to operate in the range they were designed for.
Once the point gap has been set, you need to move the point plate back and forth until the points JUST BEGIN TO OPEN at the F mark alignment. You have to test this with a 12v light or a volt meter. Generally, when the point gap is correct, the timing will be correct fairly close to the middle of the adjustment slot.
When the points just open, the primary circuit collapses, which sends a wave of energy through the coil windings and creates a high voltage spark. Basically, the points are just an on/off switch for the coil circuit. ALWAYS have both spark plug wires connected to plugs, either screwed into the motor or grounded against the engine to complete the circuit for testing.
For a more pictorial view of ignition timing go here:
http://www.dansmc.com/bat_coil_ign.htm
Bill Silver
