QuestionI have a 1983 honda 1100 magnum. The breaks are overheating, Change break fluid, installed new brake pades. In the morning breaks are fine after bike sitting at work all day the brakes are tight after a little riding they over heat.
Wonder if the rotters are over heating or if the break fluid is coming to boil. Please advise
Glen
AnswerHi Glen,
I can help you, but you have to help me first.
I return tech information files by email. There was no email address with your question as requested and explained in my instructions.
See sample tech file below.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Brake Caliper Sticking
By Mark Shively
This is very common and often causes brakes to over-heat, fade, and even fail.
What happens is with time brake fluid changes chemically into a solid gel or in severe cases a crystal powder. The gel or powder expands against seals and seals are pressed against caliper pistons and prevent pistons from returning completely after brake pressure is applied.
When an excessive build up of gummed or crystallized brake fluid is present behind the caliper seals, thorough cleaning may restore the calipers to service. The seal grooves and lands must be scraped clean, sterile like, so to speak.
When this gumming process begins, it may reoccur more easily. This may be a result of metal surfaces being etched. Etching causes surfaces to form mountains and valleys. A caliper in good condition will have smooth machined surfaces. Rough surfaces seem to promote this chemical change more easily.
Inspection, Disassembly, and Cleaning:
Remove the caliper, brake hoses, and brake pads per the Service Manual instructions. Drain brake fluid from caliper. Spray brake cleaner in and around caliper. Carefully remove caliper pistons with compressed air. This may be dangerous, take necessary safety precautions. Insert a material between the piston and caliper to absorb the energy as the pistons blow out. Wood, rubber, folded shop rag, etc... Pistons make a loud pop noise as they are blown out.
Use a Vice-grip or other pliers to remove the pistons. They may remain partially in, or sometimes only one piston blows out. If this happens, grip the piston with pliers near the exposed edge. Place one tool jaw in the piston opening and the other on the outside surface. Or, place both jaws on the piston exterior circumference. Use a minimal bite to avoid un-necessary damages to the piston surfaces. Some tool marks will be left. Tools marks near the edge are ok. The seals will not contact this area, so the seals will not be damaged by the tool marks. Tool marks may be sanded smooth in most cases.
Once pistons are removed, remove rubber seals. Use a dental pick or other suitable means for removal. Use a dental mirror to view seal lands and grooves. Work in a well lighted area for best results.
For cleaning grooves, use pipe cleaning brushes, gun cleaning brushes, picks, Wet/Dry fine sanding paper, tooth or wire brushes, an Allen wrench sized to fit groove and with formed or ground flat blade like tool tip. Other tools and items may be fabricated or modified to work.
Once grooves are thoroughly cleaned, reinstall new seals. Clean and mend piston surfaces accordingly, and press into place. Install new brake pads (recommended), connect brake hoses, flush and bleed system.
