QuestionI recently purchased a 1985 Honda Magna VF700 motorcyle. The guy I purchased it from had used his truck to jump the bike, now the bike doesn't crank. He figured the starter relay went bad when he jumped it. I look the part up on line but can't not find a starter relay listed for this bike. What would be the most logical way to figure what was wrong and how to fix it?
AnswerHi Robert,
Get a copy of the service manual.
Perform electrical diagnosis.
To view the solenoid on Bike Bandit's parts microfiche, look under "side cover" menu. Odd place to list electrical parts.
jump or boost starting a MC from a larger car or truck battery may harm the CDI (ignition unit) and other delicate electronic components. The larger battery's amperage is much higher than the MC system, especially if the engine are running when boosting.
Test ignition systom components.
Test charging system components.
Check battery voltage with a multimeter (VOM).
Check specific gravity of each battery cell with a Hydrometer designed for MC batteries.
I return tech information files by email. There was no email address with your question as requested in my instructions.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
(sample tech file)
Starter Solenoid Testing & Repairing 101
By Mark Shively
Check the Starter Solenoid by isolating it from other components (disconnect small electrical wire). Check the primary winding by connecting a VOM (multimeter, Ohm meter, or continuity tester) to the small, 12 VDC wire. You should have continuity or little resistance (if any) when connecting meter test leads to the single wire and its metal body (ground) with engine off.
The larger terminals on the solenoid are tested by listening for the "click" sound when starter button is pressed while starting engine. What's happening when you hear the click is the solenoid is an electro-magnet. When the starter button is depressed, battery voltage through the small wire creates a magnet effect inside the solenoid. This attracts the high current contact (a spring loaded T-shaped contact inside the solenoid) to travel upwards and connect with the two large exterior terminals on top of solenoid (heavy cable leads 10 gauge wire). When this connection is completed, current flows to the starter motor for starting engine.
Another bench testing method is to connect the solenoid's small 12 VDC lead to a 12 VDC battery source while grounding the solenoid body. Watch, feel, and listen for the solenoid "click and jump" when voltage is applied. This test verifies total solenoid performance.
High current contacts may become pitted or burned by arcing. This is normal wear. In severe cases, pitted and burned contacts may cause starting problems. The solenoid may be disassembled, inspected, and repaired, though internal parts are not sold separately. Disassembly requires de-soldering and re-soldering of the small wire from the solenoid cap, and bending metal retainer tabs before cap removal is possible. Once separated and opened, clean and file the contacts to restore performance. There are only a few parts to the solenoid; cap, body, T-contact, and contact return spring (not counting primary wire).
I prefer to use dielectric grease on electrical connections such as multi-connectors and bullet type connectors. Dielectric grease helps to prevent shorting due to rain and washing. It also helps to prevent formation of corrosion.
