Questionjust replaced clutchslave cylinder parts.drained all fluids&replaced with new. followed all instuctions in service manual,bleed the clutch, now the clutch doesn't grab. When on the center stand i'll put the bike in gear & pull the clutch in & the rear wheel keeps spinning, any help would be appreciated.
AnswerHi John,
On occasion, bleeding a clutch or brake circuit takes several hours. This kills a techs efficiency and pay, but we've found ways to deal with it. Depending upon what tools you have at hand, the amount of air trapped in the system, and where the air is trapped, will determine how much time it takes to purge the air from the system. Worst case scenario, a seal is leaking from istallation procedures.
Theres a couple of things you can do. See tech files below. There was no email address with the question as requested. I reply to dozens questions daily. Emailing these files make my volunteering time possible.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Clutch Operation Faulty:
Clutch slipping:
No clutch lever play
Friction plate worn or warped
Steel plate worn or warped
Clutch spring broken or weak
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub or housing unevenly worn
Clutch inner cable catching
Clutch not disengaging properly:
Clutch lever play excessive
Clutch plate warped or too rough
Clutch spring compression uneven
Engine oil deteriorated
Engine oil viscosity too high
Engine oil level too high
Clutch housing frozen on drive shaft
Clutch release mechanism trouble
Clutch hub locknut loose
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Brake/Clutch Bleeding 102
By Mark Shively
Vacuum bleeders sometimes are more troublesome than efficient. Other times they work well. The old school way to bleed is to allow the master cylinder to purge the system of air. This may be slow at times, but effective.
To begin, flush the existing brake/clutch fluid from the reservoir. Pump it through the lines to the bleeder valves. Flush thoroughly until you see new fluid exit each valve. Start with the closest bleeder valve and work away from the master cylinder, to the next furthest valve.
To flush, pump the lever a few times and hold the lever in as if bleeding the line. Open the bleeder valve wide open and leave it open. Begin pumping until you see fresh fluid at the bleeder. When you see fresh fluid, hold the lever in on the last pump and tighten the valve. Pump the lever and crack the valve for a quick bleed. Repeat for all bleeders. You may not need to bleed the system after the last valve is flushed.
If bleeding is necessary, bleed the system by starting with the furthest bleeder valve and work towards the master cylinder (just the opposite of flushing).
If master cylinder needs purged of air (rare) do the following: adjust the master cylinder so it is as level as possible on the handlebar. Remove the reservoir cap and top off fluid to proper level. Very, very, slowly pull the brake lever in while monitoring the inlet/outlet ports in the bottom of the reservoir (machined holes). Release the lever slowly, alternating lever pulls of about 1-2mm, and full pulls. The shorter pulls seem to purge air best. Look for air bubbles to rise from the ports. Repeat until no air is seen and/or lever feels firm.
If no air is seen, pull the lever in and let it return quickly by releasing it from your fingertips. It should snap back under the tension of the plunger spring. Repeat this several times while watching for air bubbles. Switch between the two methods described above: slow short pull method and long quick release method.
When no air is observed, the master cylinder is purged of air. Be patient, this may take several minutes. If no air is observed and lever feels soft, bleed lines until lever feels firm. Synthetic brake fluids may result with a softer than normal lever feel. Old rubber brake hose may result with a softer feeling lever. For best results, use braided steel brake lines and DOT 3 or 4 brake fluids.
Tip: Shake or gently tap brake hoses with a tool to send residual air up the lines to the master cylinder.
Note: Clutch levers will not pump-up to a firm feel.
