QuestionI have a 1996 Kawasaki Vulcan 750. I recently have been having problems it. I was going to go for a ride the other day, and I found that my bike wouldn't start. After having my battery load tested and replaced, I am still having problems. When I hit the starter button, all I get is a double click from somewhere around the battery box. I was hoping that you may have some suggestions as to what may be causing this to happen. Thank You.
AnswerHi David,
Here's a troubleshooting chart to assist with diagnosis. The clicking is the starter solenoid relay at work.
I suspect the starter motor carbon brushes are worn and/or the starter motor housing has excessive build-up of carb powder. Another common cause is starter clutch wear.
See microfiche parts here: "www.buykawasaki.com" or "www.bikebandit.com"
Once Kawasaki's site opens, click green text "Vehicle Information" from the menu, and then "View Parts Diagram" from the menu. A new page opens, select "Motorcycle" from the menu, (or enter your VIN for the “history” of your MC). Select the year, make and model from the menus that follow.
With Bike Bandit, click "OEM Parts" and then select your MC from the menus that follow.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
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Engine Doesn't Start, Starting Difficulty:
Starter Motor Not Rotating:
tarter lockout or neutral switch trouble
Starter motor trouble
Battery voltage low
Relays not contacting or operating
Starter button not contacting
Wiring open or shorted
Ignition switch trouble
Engine stop switch trouble
Fuse blown
Starter motor rotating but engine doesn't turn over:
Starter clutch trouble
Engine won't turn over:
Valve seizure
Cylinder, piston seizure
Connecting rod small end seizure
Connecting rod big end seizure
Transmission gear or bearing seizure
Camshaft seizure
Balancer bearing seizure
No fuel flow:
Fuel tap vacuum hose clogged
Fuel tank air vent obstructed
Fuel tap clogged
Fuel line clogged
Float valve clogged
Engine flooded:
Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too high
Float valve worn or stuck open
Starting technique faulty
(When flooded, crank the engine with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine)
No spark; spark weak:
Battery voltage low
Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted
Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble
Spark plug cap not in good contact
Spark plug incorrect
IC ignitor trouble
Neutral, starter lockout, or side stand switch trouble
Pickup coil trouble
Ignition coil trouble
Ignition or engine stop switch shorted
Wiring shorted or open
Fuse blown
Compression low
Spark plug loose
Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down
Cylinder, piston worn
Piston ring bad (worn, weak, broken, or sticking)
Piston ring/land clearance excessive
Cylinder head gasket damaged
Cylinder head warped
Valve spring broken or weak
Valve not seating properly (valve bent, worn, or carbon accumulation on the seating surface)
Hydraulic lash adjuster damaged (worn, seizure, or spring broken)
Hydraulic lash adjuster oil passage clogged
