QuestionHEY MIKE THANKS FOR THE QIUCK RESPONSE. IF THE GASOLINE VARISHED, WHAT SHOULD I DO.SHOULD I GET THE CARBS THOROUGHLY CLEANED GOOD. I APPRECIATE YOUR HELP WITH EVERYTHING . I THINK I AM GETTING SOMEWHERE WITH WHAT YOU ARE TELLING ME IAM GOING TO CHECK FOR THE VARISHED GAS TOMORROW. SEE WHAT HAPPENS. WHAT WOULD CAUSE THE CARBS TO VARISH ANYWAY?-------------------------
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-HEY MIKE, JUST FOLLOWING UP ON THE MOTORCYCLE PROBLEM IM HAVING. I DONT THINK IT WOULD BE THE PLUGS,I AM ON THE 3RD SET SINCE THE BEGINNING OF 2004 SUMMER. DIDNT NEED THEM BUT THOUGHT THEY WOULD HELP THE PROBLEM. I HAD THE CARBS CLEANED BY TWO JACKS CYCLE AND SPORT IN WILKES-BARRE, P.A. THEY ARE KAWASAKI DEALER AND REPAIRS. ALL THE PARTS WERE REPLACED BECAUSE THE BIKE WAS LAID DOWN. IT WAS SITTING FOR ABOUT 2 YEARS AND I BOUGHT IT OFF A COUSIN OF MINE. CHANGED OIL, PLUGS AND FILTERS. I DID NOTICE RIDING THE BIKE SECOND GEAR IF YOU GIVE ALOT OF GAS STARTING OUT IN SECOND FROM FIRST IT SOUNDS LIKE THE GEAR IS MISSING TEETH(SKIPPING) DONT KNOW IF THIS HAS ANYTHING TO DO WITH THE CAMSHAFT LIKE YOU ASKED. THE CARBS WERE CLEANED IN SEPT.-EARLY OCTOBER, I DIDNT GET TO RIDE IT THAT MUCH AFTER THAT. MAYBE ABOUT A MONTH OR SO. I TOTALLY FORGOT WHAT THE PLUGS LOOK LIKE WHEN I REPLACED THEM. GOING TO TRY THE COMPRESSION TEST AS SOON AS POSSIBLE. JUST WANT TO GET A LITTLE INFORMATION FROM SOMEONE WITH KNOWLEDGE AS TO WHAT IM TALKING ABOUT, THIS IS WHY IM ASKING YOU. STEP BY STEP WE MAY GET THIS BIKE TO START AGAIN.I REALLY DONT WANT TO GET IN TO MORE HUNDREDS OF DOLLAR AGAIN TO GET THIS BIKE TO RUN. IF YOU CAN GO ON WHAT I GAVE YOU SO FAR IT WOULD BE GREAT, IF NOT PLEASE RESPOND ANYWAY THANKS AGIAN EDWARD SIMS------------------------
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well a few weeks ago i got on my bike and started it. it didnt sound right at all. let it warm up and took off with it, and starting out in first gear it felt like i was riding with the choke on then the power came as i accellerated. it also backfire to. no in the passed few days i have tried to start it and it will not start at all. it sounds like a car with the timing belt shot in it. the bike just winds over but doesnt get any response. i bought this bike laid down and pretty much put it back together. mostly the plastic faring on it. i have had the carbs cleaned, new filter, new plugs not wires. brand new stator, voltage regulator, ignition switch(starter). just dont want to get rid of it. it is a 1993 kawasaki ninja zx-6 e1 model. it is a rare model hard to find this is why. i drove it most of the summer it ran great for me. some friends said because it it old it may need to be put in time. i dont know this is why im asking someone who does. i have tried many mechanics on the website(allexperts.com) but no one seems to repond. please if you can lead me in the right direction . if you can i would greatly appreciate it . thanks edward sims
Answer -
Hi Edward,
Sorry for the delay in responding to your question. I'm very busy working overtime.
I doubt there's a problem with timing unless someone has tampered with the camshafts. If so, let me know.
I suspect the plugs are fouled and maybe the carburetors need thoroughly cleaned to restore proper performance.
First thing to do is remove the spark plugs and describe them to me. Are they black and sooty, black and wet, white and dry, etc... The plugs may simply need cleaned or replaced for the engine to start.
Go to "www.ngk.com/sparkplug411.asp" and compare your plugs to those in their "Plug Problem" charts. Tell me which plugs they most closely compare with.
Next, I'll need for you to check cylinder compression. Do you have a compression tester? Testers can be rented or borrowed from most local auto parts stores.
Questions for you:
Who cleaned the carburetors, a professional shop mechanic or someone other?
Why were all those parts replaced?
When was the tune-up done on this MC?
Answer these questions and include an email address with your reply as requested. I return repair information files by email.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Answer -
I think the carbs have varnished again. Pull the float bowls and look for evidence of varnished gasoline.
AnswerEdward,
My name is Mark, not Mike.
Like "pop", gasoline goes flat (so to speak). Gas only lasts several days before the recipe ingriedients evaporate. Add all the sediment crud and condensation of the underground storage tanks and you have pump gas. Pumps have filters near the pump handles that are susposed to filter the above mentioned out of our vehicles.
When gas changes chemically, the early stage results are known as "varnishing." Fuel left in float bowls becomes a gel like substance. Advanced stages of varnishing result with the gel chnaging to a crystal like substance.
This change effect is happening constantly and begins once gasoline is blended. Left unused, gas quickly spoils and causes problems. Varnished gas has a unique odor. The smell is wretched in advanced stages.
If carbs are found to be varnished, they will need thoroughly cleaned to restore proper performance. Some parts may need replaced depending upon the stage of varnishing.
Get the Service/Repair Manual for your MC and follow the procedures for removing carburetors, etc... Use the information I've placed below to compliment the manual's procedures.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Carb Cleaning 101
By M. Shively
The elements of internal combustion engines are: correct fuel/air ratio, spark at right time, adequate cylinder compression.
There are many passageways and openings to check and clean. All are important in function and when obstructed or not working properly, have subtle to radical effects on engine performance. Vacuum leaks and carburetor synchronization also have effects on performance and should be inspected and adjusted following the below procedures.
Carb Cleaning 101
Warning: Remove all rubber parts before you begin. These parts usually include vacuum diaphragms, needle valves, orings, hoses, and other parts. Spray cleaners will damage these parts. Do not disassemble individual carbs from the carb bracket.
Air & Fuel Passageways: Trace and learn individual fuel and air circuits from beginning to end. Machines can only drill straight through the cast passageways. To change direction, another angled passageway must be drilled. The union is plugged with a brass or bronze bead. Inspect and clean each passageway with spray cleaner, brushes/pipe cleaners/etc, and compressed air. Remove any discoloration and debris. Look for spray cleaner to exit from one or more passageways.
Jet Cleaning: Inspect jets by holding to light and look through them. You should see an unobstructed round hole. Clean the jets with one or more of the following: jet cleaning wires, soak solutions, carb spray cleaners and compressed air. Re-inspect jets after cleaning and install when clear of obstructions. Some main jets have paper-like gaskets. Most have metal spacers between the jet and the emulsion tube. Some screw directly into a brass emulsion tube which is machined for a 7mm wrench at its float chamber exposed base.
Inlet Fuel Valve: Inspect the needle valve & spring. Press down the tiny metal rod that protrudes from the butt or float end of the needle valve. The spring should move freely and return the rod to its location. Check the needle valve's seat area for a groove or other wear. It should appear highly polished. Some needle valve seats are rubber and wear may not be visible. Inspect the needle valve jet seat. You can clean the jet seat with Q-tips and semi-chrome polish if necessary.
Carb Body Castings: Blow air through the atmospheric vent holes located on the dome of each float bowl chamber. Air should exit via hoses or brass nipples. Inspect the emulsion tubes and passageways (cast towers that jets thread into) for discoloration and debris. Clean interior emulsion towers with a soft bristle gun cleaning brush. Clean the Venturi's (main carb bore).
Needle Jets & Jet Needles: Clean the needle jets, jet needles, and passageway or tower that needle jet screws into. Clean the emulsion tube (pipe between needle jet and main jet) (Main Jet may screw into emulsion tube). Jet needles are part of the throttle slides. See below…
Throttle Slides: There are several types of throttle slides: Mechanical linkage, vacuum, diaphragm, and cable. Disassembling the jet needle from the slide is not always required for cleaning. If you have vacuum piston type throttle slides (large diameter solid metal slide), avoid cleaning the lubrication from sides and caps. If piston type check cap vents and passageways with air. Clean if necessary and re-lube. If you have rubber vacuum throttle diaphragms, inspect for dry-rot, defects, and tears by gently stretching rubber away from center. Do this until all areas around diaphragm have been inspected. Replace any defective part as described above. Clean carb body areas around diaphragm including air passageways and air jets. Diaphragms have a locator loop or tab fabricated into their sealing edge. Observe this locator upon reassembly. Avoid pinching the diaphragm when reinstalling caps.
Fuel Screws: Fuel screws have sharp tapered ends. Carefully turn one fuel screw in while counting the turns until it seats lightly. Warning: These screws are very easily damaged if over tightened into their seats. Record amount of "turns-in" and remove the fuel screw, spring, washer, and oring. The fuel screw is part of the enrichment (choke) circuit...clean passageways as described above. When carbs are assembled, spray low PSI compressed air into diaphragm air vents located at intake side of carbs. Throttle slides should rise, then fall when air is removed. Lightly lube external moving linkages. Reinstall carbs and follow through with carburetor synchronization.
Throttle Cables: Lubricate cables periodically. If cables are disconnected from carbs or removed for replacement, etc . . . remember cable routing and ensure proper reinstallation routing. Avoid bread-tying, sharp bends, and pinching cables. Adjust cables so throttle grip has about 5mm of play or throttle slides or butterfly valves may not open completely (full throttle)(wide full open).
Float Bowls: Inspect float bowls for sediment, gum or varnish, crystallization, and defects. Clean all pipes, tubes, passageways, and embedded jets with cleaners and compressed air. Remove and clean the drain screw and area. Inspect bowl gasket and replace if necessary. Clean and inspect overflow pipes and tubes, look for vertical cracks.
Floats: There are several types of float materials: plastic, brass, black composite, tin, and others. Handle floats carefully. Avoid bending, twisting, denting, or other means of mishandling. Most floats are adjustable by bending a small metal tab near the float axle end. Do not change the float adjuster tab unless tuning fuel service levels. Clean metal floats by soaking or spray cleaners, if necessary. Replace other type floats if cleaning is necessary. Clean the float axle or pin.
Synchronization: This is a fine adjustment performed usually and preferably with the carbs installed and the engine running. The unusual part is performed with gauged wire with the carbs on the work bench. Carburetor synchronizing balances Venturi vacuum at the exhaust side of each carburetor, resulting with smooth idling and optimized performance at all throttle openings. Synchronization is checked using a set of gauges which are either air vacuum type or liquid mercury type. The gauges are connected to vacuum ports on the intake manifolds via nipple tubes or if sealed with screws, sync gauge adapters will be needed. With the engine running at temperature, and with a fan or means of forced convection aimed onto the engine, the carbs fuel screws and idle are adjusted, then the synchronization is adjusted via adjustment screws on the carbs. A reserve fuel tank is recommended for convenience of accessing carbs during this procedure. See gauge instructions and repair manuals for detailed use of synchronization gauges.
Notes: While carbs are apart, record the jet sizes. Look for a very small number imprinted on the body of the jets. Verify that numbers are the same for all jets on models with in-line cylinders. A few transverse-4 models and V-engines, the inner and outer carbs use some different size jets and it's important to not mix them up. If you have dial or veneer calipers, measure and record float heights. Perform measurements with floats just touching needle valves, though not depressing the needle valve rods. Replace fuel and vacuum hoses. Be sure to use fuel rated hose for fuel. Install or replace in-line fuel filters. It's a good time to remove and clean interior petcock fuel filters. Inspect carb manifolds for dry-rotting, inspect all clamps and air ducts. Inspect, clean, lube, and/or replace air filter(s).
