QuestionI own a 1986 Suzuki GS450L. I am having problems getting it to start. I turn the key on and the lights come on but when I hit the start button nothing happens, no sound, no turn over. I was wondering if there was a way to test the starter to see if that is wrong with it. Thank you!
AnswerHi Lu Ann,
Send me an email. I'll return several troubleshooting/repair information files that will assist you with your MC's problem. My email addy is:
mshively1@woh.rr.com
First thing to check is condition of battery. Use a multimeter to check battery volatge. Go from there...
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
Sample file:
Starter Solenoid Testing 101
Check the Starter Solenoid by isolating it from other components (disconnect small electrical wire). Check the primary winding by connecting a VOM (multimeter, Ohm meter, or continuity tester) to the small, 12 VDC wire. You should have continuity or little resistance (if any) when connecting meter test leads to the single wire and its metal body (ground) with engine off.
The larger terminals on the solenoid are tested by listening for the "click" sound when starter button is pressed while starting engine. What's happening when you hear the click is the solenoid is an electro-magnet. When the starter button is used, battery voltage through the small wire creates a magnet effect. This attracts the high current contact (spring loaded T-shaped contact) inside the solenoid to travel upwards and connect with the two large exterior terminals on top of solenoid (heavy cable leads 10 gauge wire). When this connection is completed, current flows to the starter motor for starting engine.
Another bench testing method is to connect the solenoid's small 12 VDC lead to a 12 VDC battery source while grounding the solenoid body. Watch, feel, and listen for the solenoid "click and jump" when voltage is applied. This test verifies total solenoid performance.
High current contacts may become pitted or burned by arcing. This is normal wear. In severe cases, pitted and burned contacts may cause starting problems. The solenoid may be disassembled, inspected, and repaired, though internal parts are not sold separately. Disassembly requires de-soldering and re-soldering of the small wire from the solenoid cap, and bending metal retainer tabs before cap removal is possible. Once separated and opened, clean and file the contacts to restore performance. There are only a few parts to the solenoid; cap, body, T-contact, and contact return spring (not counting primary wire).
I prefer to use dielectric grease on electrical connections such as multi-connectors and bullet type connectors. Dielectric grease helps to prevent shorting due to rain and washing. It also helps to prevent formation of corrosion.
