Question-------------------------
Followup To
Question -
Thanks, Mike...
Which solenoid spring are you referring to? The "internal" springs on the solenoid require a considerable amount of force to compress. The solenoid is a brand-new Accel unit just out of the box, and the problem manifested itself before the new solenoid was installed.
The spring separating the "outer" and "inner" solenoid plungers is also new, although I can't find fault with the old one.
The only other spring I can locate is actually part of the solenoid linkage between the plunger and the bendix shift lever. Is it possible that this spring is weak enough to allow the drive gear to engage the clutch ring gear, thus pulling in the solenoid? And would it cause the solenoid to "hang" until power is removed? This particular spring seems to be the most likely candidate.
I'm pretty much convinced that the problem is a mechanical, rather than an electrical one. I'd give anything to be able to see inside that primary case when the thing decides to act up, but that ain't gonna happen.
Thanks again in advance!
Dave
(BTW...great website for your shop!)
Mike:
You've helped me out more than once, but I'm not sure whether this problem needs a mechanic or a priest. In 30+ years of riding and wrenching on H-Ds, I've never seen this problem and neither has anyone I know. Here goes:
My 1977 FLH has gotten into the habit of turning the starter on by itself. The bike starts & runs fine, but I can ride between 2 feet and 2 miles and the starter kicks in. It continues to run after the ignition is shut off, and the only way to stop it is scramble to get the seat off and pull the negative battery cable. Then, it's OK again until the next start-up. Some times, all I have to do is blip the throttle to make the problem appear (vibration-sensitive?).
The solenoid is definitely energizing during this sequence of events...I've burned up 2 of them, and one starter (Damn...starters are expensive!). The relay is brand-new and tests good. The mechanical linkage between the solenoid and starter drive appears to be functioning correctly, however, it's tough to see what's going on in there with the primary case installed, and the starter drive shaft needs the primary case and it's bearing to function...but you know that. The bendix drive is working properly, and the drive gear slides freely on the shaft.
So far, I've installed a new starter, starter relay, solenoid, and cabling. I've ruled out the relay and starter button in the primary side of the circuit, since the problem persists with the ignition off, and those components are de-energized at that time. I've had the primary case and starter drive mechanicals in and out of the thing 3 times this weekend! I'm real close to calling that priest! Help!
Thanks again, in advance...
Dave
Answer -
Replace the solenoid spring and see if that doesnt solve the problem.
Mike
AnswerThe spring I was refering to is the long spring that goes into the end of the soleniod when installing the soleniod. This spring allows the solenoid to go back once power is let off. With that old of a bike I would also change the spring you were refering to.
The problem you are having can only be caused from (1) Bad or weak soleniod spring, (2) Bad solenoid, wiring short (3) or (4) weak battery.
I have never seen your problem before of the bike just turning over the starter when you are riding down the road. I have seen the solenoid stick when starting and it was one of the above problems.
I hope this helps
Mike
