Motorcycle Repair: tire change, rear axle nut, rim band

Question
1974 cb550,
can i change my back tire myself
or do i need to do that at a shop?


Answer
Matt... I guess you didn't get an owner's manual with your bike :>)

If you have tools and some knowledge about disassembly of things and some tire tools, an air compressor and are ready to get dirty, then you should be able to do this yourself...

The bike needs to be on the centerstand...
Remove cotter pin in rear axle nut, loosen but leave in place for now. Remove the brake stay hardware at the brake panel and swing the brake stay down out of the way.

If you have the original 4 pipes, then you will have to remove the bolts from the end of the swing arm, which holds the brackets. Move the axle forward to get some slack in the chain, remove the chain from the sprocket. Slide wheel assy back.

IF you have an aftermarket 4:1 or similar exhaust system that will allow you to remove the axle from the side, then you can just withdraw the axle after you have remove the nut and the swingarm hardware can remain in place.

Either way, remove the axle and brake panel, inspect for worn brake shoes and any corrosion or damage to the brake drum, etc. Place the wheel down on a blanket or piece of cardboard so you don't scratch up the rim and hub.

Remove the valve stem valve and retainer nut letting out remaining air. Stand on the edges of the tire until the tire bead breaks loose from the rim all the way around on both sides. Use tire tools to work under the edge of the tire bead, bringing it out over the edge of the rim. Rim protectors are nice here, as tire tools will often damage the rims, if they slip or not positioned correctly. Once one side of the tire is brought over the edge of the rim, reach inside and pull out the tube.

Use tire tools to finish removing the tire from the rim. Check rim for rust and corrosion, clean with wire brush.
Replace the rubber rim band and spray some silicone lube on the bead of the new tire. Work tire over the rim and then insert a lightly inflated tube (just enough to make it slightly rounded). Insert valve stem through rim and loosely install nut to hold tube from falling back inside the tire. Push tube around inside tire so it is away from outer edges of the rim. Start at 180 degrees away from valve stem and use tire tools to start tire over the edge of the rim. Work a little on both sides so the remaining part is close to the stem area. Keep an eye on the tube as it can move around and position itself to be pinched when you pull the last of the tire over the rim edge.

If you haven't pinched the $10 tube, you can inflate the tire to about 40 psi momentarily to seat the tire on the rim, then lower pressure to suggested values.

Reassemble the brake parts and either install axle assy and install the wheel assy from the back, then install the swing arm brackets or if you pulled the axle from the side, position the wheel in the swing arm, install chain over sprockets, insert axle from one side and then center the wheel hole and spacer so axle can be fully installed.
Reassemble the brake hardware, adjust chain tension using the axle adjusters that clamp around the rear bracket pieces. Make sure that chain adjusters are set the same on both sides!

Tighten axle VERY TIGHT when chain slack is set at about 3/4" at the tightest point. Recheck the chain adjuster lock nuts and brake hardware.  Go riding!

See also: http://www.clarity.net/~adam/tire-changing.html
http://www.dansmc.com/tires1.htm
http://users.net1plus.com/holbrook/tireproc.htm

Bill Silver