Question-------------------------
Hi again, and thanks for the previous info about Honda 1973 Cl 450 K-4! I have tested the alternator and decided it is definately good. I also tried wiring my 3 alternator leads directly to the regulator rectifier unit and BOOM 13-15 volts dc at 3000-5000 rpm at the battery. So, it's a wiring problem. Heres what I need to know to sew up the problem. Three leads come from the alt. White pink and yellow. White goes directly to the headlight switch DY. Pink to the rectifier, and yellow, originally, to headlight switch SE, pigtailed also to the regulator and rectifier. I dont know what DY and SE mean, but I understand that for some reason white and yellow go to the headlight switch. Obviously since I am using a rectifier/regulator unit I don't need to send yellow to the regulator anymore. It seems to me because white and yellow go directly to the headlight switch, the headlight, at least in one position, runs on AC, therefore utilizing the alternator output before its voltage is cut in half by the rectifier. Is this correct theory? Why else would those wires go to the headlight switch? Or am I crazy and this is a totally DC system. The lightbulbs don't care if it's ac or dc. With Yellow pigtailed to the rectifier, the white/ yellow circut sends all leftover power to the rectifier. Or is it that there is always a connection between yellow and white at the headlight, which when the light is off just sends the power to the rectifier, when light is on it uses what it needs and makes any additional voltage available to the rectifier. Also since one alternator lead is twice the voltage of the others, is this the lead that should go directly to the rectifier? My leads are so old you cant really tell the color any more. Thanks for bearing with me on this one----Ozzy Olympia WA
Followup To
Question -
Hi,Problem in charging system 1973 honda cl 450 k-4. how can we test the generator? 3 wires come from it. Went through rectifier, tried replacing it with a used unit that tested good via resistance. Don't know how to test regulator if it can be. Tried and aftermarket regulator/rectifier...no better...thinking maybe generator isn't putting out, tried all rpm from idle to 5000 or more with no lights on. Does regulator send a charge to generator to activate electro magnet? Is that how this model regulates? We obviously dont completely comprehend how regulation is achieved. Battery is brand new and fully charged. So we were thinking test generator(how?) and follow from there. But I realize that these systems are not a straight line, not just series. What would be the best strategy to test the entire system. Battery will die after riding with light on, definately no recieving a charge, reads 12.6-12.7 V DC even at 5000 rpm. Shouldent that be more like 13-15 or 16 volts? Really appreciate any help-----Ozzy Olympia Wa
Answer -
Ozzy, Sounds like you have the basics covered, so will try to fill in some gaps in your information base.
1. Charging system is permanent magnet, so output is a function of speed as far as the stator windings go. Check stator windings at plug, first at rest testing for continuity between the three yellow wires (or brown, yellow and pink) and be sure that they are not grounding to the engine. You will measure AC volts coming off the stator. You can do a rough test by connecting a 12v test light to each leg of the stator output when the engine is idling. Two legs will be about the same brightness and the other one should be twice as bright (or test 2x voltage on AC scale).
2. Selenium rectifer should be checked with ohm meter from each post to ground then reverse the leads. Low readings in one direction and high readings on the opposite testing.
You CAN replace the rectifier with a full wave rectifer unit from Radio Shack.
3. There is a voltage regulator which is known to be problematic. It senses overvoltage conditions and then clips off the excess to ground. Try disconnecting the regulator (located on back of battery box I think- little silver box with 2 wires) and see if the output comes back up. If so and it isn't too high, then just leave it disconnected. If it starts to boil the battery fluid, then find a replacement for it.
www.westernhillshonda.com may help.
Check another site for more charging info...
www.electrexusa.com
Bill Silver
AnswerOzzy, Honda pretty much always used a set of contacts in the headlight switch as a jumper to increase output to match the extra demand of the lights.
The yellow and white wires connect when the headlight switch is turned ON and that sends the extra voltage from the stator over to the rectifier.
I would clean all contacts, put everything back as it came from the factory and then disconnect the little voltage regulator box wires and see if you get your full output back.
Bill Silver
