QuestionI was having trouble with my '00 carbureted 1500 classic (I believe it is model# vn1500-E3) not starting up after the bike was rode for a while and warmed up. It would not fire on any of the plugs until I let the bike cool down for about 15-30 minutes. It ran almost perfectly when you got it started (except for a very slight dead spot just off of idle {and it did this since new}that someone said had something to do with the throttle position sensor). I suspected that it had to be the Black box that sent the pulse to the Hi Volt coils.
Everything else is the same on the bike before the Dyna3000.
(46 pilot / 170 main jet installed, clip on needle is 4th groove from top) K&N HiFlo AF, Drag Pipes with no baffles
Kawasaki wanted 360.00 for a stock replacement. I found that Dynatek offered an upgrade (Dyna3000) that 'supposedly' fit right into place and used the stock pickup coils, hi-voltage coils and wires. It would do this for 249.00. I thought great...this is a no-brainer.
I ordered it and installed it and the darn thing cranked on the very first revolution of the crank. It idled ok but a little rough. The NEW problem occurs just off of idle either quickly rolling the throttle on or a quick BLIP of the
throttle. What happens is that when this is done, it backFIRES thru the carburetor.If you can accelerate slowly enough past that area of trouble between idle and midway, it seems fine.
I removed the Dyna3000 and put the stock box back in and it ran fine. I have tried everything from getting a replacemnt from Dynatek to fidgetting with the mixture screw,increasing the pilot jet size (and main jet). The same result. I called Dynatek and spoke with Scott and he said that they have installed those boxes on several 1500 classics without problems. He said that since I was having trouble with the stock box that maybe there was something else causing the trouble and that the symptom was amplified or changed when I went with the 3000 (even though the stock box ran fine when reinstalled).
I took the bike to the closest bike repair shop (which happens to be a Harley shop) and they kept it for a few days. The 'certified' mechanic
called me back and said that it was running fine...that the only thing he seen was it went dead when he stopped and he increased the idle.
This actually raised the idle above the rev area that caused the trouble. In other words I was at the same point I was before, because I couldn't ride this thing around while it is idling at 1/4 throttle. I'm not a pro, but I wasn't born yesterday either. I have since tried my stock box back in to troubleshoot and it wont fire at all now.
I called Dynatek's support # again and the fellow said that it appears to be running lean in the low end of the mixture process. The bike ran fine with the original box in place before rejetting for this new UPGRADE, except for the hot starting problem.
I took it to a local kawasaki shop. They kept it for a couple of weeks and basically said that they couldnt find a problem either. That it was most likely the Dyna3000. I dont think that they did any testing to be honest. While I was there I purchased a manual for the bike.
When I got home I took the alternator outer cover off and checked the timing. The Front mark lined up for a sec or 2 then was all over the place and it did the same for the rear. Thinking that maybe my coils (pickup or Hi V) may be bad I purchased a set of pulse coils, Accell High Volt. coils and new wires (about 250.00). Same problem. Dangit.
I know that this has been a long question, but I am at my wits end and frustrated as can be. Any help that you could offer or input on other people having similar trouble with Dyna ignitions would be appreciated.
I probably should have just bought the stock box from Kawasaki to begin with.
AnswerHi Ron,
Love the long narrative. It makes the difference with diagnosing problems. Thanks!
I feel your frustration and sense a run-a-round from one or more dealerships. Those bastards! : )
The problem is difficult to diagnose, at least via email, but I'll try and offer some ideas to you.
An engine needs three elements to run: 1) correct air-fuel mixture, 2) spark at exat time, 3) adequate compression.
Remove or alter any element and the result is problems.
Start with a cylinder compression check. Maybe do a leak-down test depending upon compression readings.
Remove and read the spark plugs. Depending upon the appearance of the plugs, adjust the air-fuel mixture by changing or adjusting air intake, jetting, or both.
Also investigate condition of ignition components. Test each component and verify they are working properly. CDI's are tested by comparing them with a known good one. Very few dealers have test special equipment to test CDI's/TCI's. Some brands have no such test equipment. You description indicates the ignition timing varied. I would look into this more thoroughly.
Backfiring (coughing) through the carburetors: This is common with running lean, as Dynatek may have explained, and improper valve timing. With valve timing, some of the cylinder's compressed charge is forced back thru the carbs, sort of like a cough.
These links may be helpful. Also, go to Kawasaki's website and enter your Vulcan's VIN (veh ID #). Get any recall/warranty information by the VIN.
http://www.vroc.org/dbva/html/webforum.html
http://www.whitcom.com/nomad/
http://www.vroc.org/dbva/index.html
http://www.the15ers.ch/
www.bikebandit.com
www.buykawasaki.com
www.motorcycle-usa.com/forum
Keep me advised on your progress.
Respectfully,
Mark Shively
www.fop104.com
