Nissan Repair: transmission/master cylinder, nissan hardbody pickup, clutch master cylinder

Question
  I have a 1997 Nissan Hardbody pickup.  The clutch stopped working on the 5-speed manual transmission.  The shift lever would move freely into the gear positions with the motor off.  But, it would not go into any of the gears with the motor running.
  I thought air might have gotten into the hydraulic system, so I bled the clutch system at both the operating cylinder and the clutch damper as it said to do in the Service Manual.  I drove it down to the end of the block in 1st and 2nd gears, and it seemed to be OK.    Then, I drove about a quarter of a mile using 3rd  and 4th as well.  I stopped it, turned around, and started back.  Then the clutch pedal went to the floor in 2nd gear and I knew it wouldn't shift again, so I cruised back home in 2nd gear.  When I got it into the driveway, I pumped the clutch pedal a bunch and the pressure in the system came back up.  Now, it will shift into the gears, but I know it won't continue to work properly.
  Do I need to replace the clutch master cylinder, the operating cylinder, and/or the clutch damper?  Or, do I need to have the transmission rebuilt?   Or,do I just need to do a better job of bleeding the clutch system?

Answer
Thomas,

I would replace both the master and slave cylinder and bleed it and be done.  The slave usually goes first.  But, if you think the thing is over ten years old and the other (master) is not far from going out.  I do not like doing things twice.  This is especially true of bleeding a clutch.  Only use DOT3 and I like to use the non synthetic fluid.  I prefer Ford High Performance Brake Fluid for a firmer pedal feel.  It has twice the boiling point of regular DOT3.  It comes in a white bottle with a black Ford GT40 on the label.  You have to ask for it at Ford and they usually do not know the difference from the blue label and the black.  It costs about $5 bucks a pint and you should get two.