QuestionI recently had my car in for an exhaust manifold repair in a local chain of exhaust shops...when I picked up my car it was making a ticking noise and would not idle properly...the mechanic stated that it would not idle properly now and to put some carburator cleaner in it and drive it for a few days and it should be fine.
The original repair was for a broken flange bolt on the catalytic converter, connecting to the exhaust manifold.
I was told the bolt broke for the second time in 2 years due to a failing/deteiorating set of engine mounts and I needed to replace the transmission mount, as well. When they were unable to successfully remove the bolt with 4 drill bits and a broken easy-out bit...they advised me they would need to remove the exhaust manifold and have it drilled out by a machine shop or replace the exhaust manifold. When they attempted to remove it, they took off the heat shield and discovered the exhaust manifold was cracked and would probably need replaced, which I agreed to such.
After a complete estimate, they also advised me the only tother needed repairs that the car needed was brakes and a couple tires, I told them to replace all parts noted, except for the brakes (which, I said I would bring back in a month or so.) and I said I would replace the 2 tires at my local tire dealer, where I normally have my engine work and repairs done other than exhaust and struts.
The total bill was slightly over a thousand dollars, which I paid when I picked up...this is when the ticking noise was discovered and rough idle was noted by the mechanic.
My original repair was as follows, I lost low end power and was getting a little exhaust noise due to the bolt being broke, causing an exhaust leak.
They replaced all the parts, as requested and I took the car home and sprayed the carb cleaner in the air cleaner and carb as instructed by the mechanic...the idle did smooth out, although the ticking continued, primarily during acceleration and/or when going uphill, when I would take my foot off of the accelerator, it would stop.
I was slightly concerned, so I made an appointment with my regular repair shop/tire dealer, soon after my engine started making a slightly louder ticking noise and then it got louder and started smoking...I pulled over and had it towed immediately.
I have since been told a piston cracked at the bottom and there was now anti-freeze in the oil pan.
When I contacted the Manager of the shop which did the work, he had quit the prior business day and I had reached the regional supervisor over the entire chain of Exhaust/Repair shops. We discussed the occurance and he offered to repair if they did something wrong...we agreed to discuss further once my shop fully diagnosed. After we hung up, he called back to let me know that prior to picking up my car, that the mechanic believed and/or thought that the oil level was 2 quarts low...so he added 2 quarts of oil...although he never noted this on the work-order...I was never told such and it was never noted in the work-order or final invoice, nor was I charged for the oil, why would a mechanic add 2 quarts of oil and not note it...
I want to note this is a 4 cylinder 1987 Nissan Pulsar, the engine only requires 3 3/8 quarts of oil, if it were 2 quarts short and it would be rattling like a caged animal...not a little tick...it would be hammering. The filter only holds a 1/2 quart...this is a very small engine, if the mechanic misread the dipstick, by not fully inserting the dipstick in the tube...then added 2 quarts...the total amount of oil would be about 5 3/8 quarts...2 quarts too much (about 67% too much oil)...
Would this/Could this cause major engine failure???
I am thinking it would cause excess pressure in the pan and on the seals in the block, cauing the damage to the bottom side of the piston and also cause the anti-freeze to leak into the cylinders, thus causing poor lubrication.
This happened in less than 50-60 miles of the repair.
Please confirm my thoughts...
I would like to note, this is a one owner car with only about 125,000 miles...and I had the engine tuned up about 14 months prior, less than 10,000 miles prior...including a new timing chains, pulleys, belts, plugs, wires etc...the engine was very sound and smooth operating.
Please advise me of your feelings.
I am now facing a $3,500.00 engine replacement.
Respectfully yours,
Kevin J. Wallace
mrbellevilleman@yahoo.com
618-530-7890 Cell
618-277-5042 Home
AnswerKevin,
If you could verify that the car was two quarts over full then you might have a case for engine damage. But, if the oil was that far over full there should have been an indication like the oil light coming on and going off since overfilling the engine by a large amount leads to air bubbles in the oil by the crankshaft hitting it and whipping it up into a froth. Again, if this was the case there should have been indications like the oil light flashing intermittently. A blown headgasket should not have been a result of the oil being overfull, not a cracked piston. Unless, that is, the oil whipping up caused failure to lubricate via the oil squirter on the piston rod not getting oil pressure due to oil being over full. Again, the oil light should have come on and that would show the problem. Unless you can pin the shop down on the oil being overfull or you have an ASE mechanic doing the work on the car that can verify the oil capacity, along with objective evidence like quarts of the oil less the anti-freeze that has leaked into the engine from the blown headgasket. It is going to be difficult to tie the two together. I wish you luck on your quest and after this I would not use that shop again... Also, you could source a wrecking yard engine with low miles and have that installed and you would be money ahead. Prices on used engines start at about $1000 for the engine plus install. So, shop around and this might be a negotiating tool to use with the shop.
