Nissan Repair: 1995 Nissan Altima Stalling, transmission fluid change, nissan altima


Question
QUESTION: Over the past two weeks the car has been stalling conditions and codes as follows:

Stalls on my way home from work, a 7 mile drive at 35 mph, after about 6 miles and when accelerating from a stop sign. Initially seeming to cut out/stutter before completely shutting down.

Note: on the way to work in the morning (5:00 AM) every thing is fine. wondering wether outside air temp has anything to do with it

The codes pulled are usually either 11 and/or 34.

Tuesday pulled the distributor cap previously and found a very light film of oil. Flushed the distributor cap, cover for the cam position sensor, cam position sensor itself with electrical contact cleaner, cleared the codes from the ecm and it started right up. Also changed the PCV valve at this time.  

Did the same thing as just stated on wedsday and thursday.

Today the same thing occured. Accelerated from a stop sign, it stuttered and then died with a code 11 and 34. Did the same as above and it started right up. Drove 1/2 block and it died again (code 11). checked connections and cleared ecm and it started but immediately died on 5 attempts, checked ecm code 55. coil connection on distributor found loose. reset connector cleared ecm and it started and stayed running. drove approximately 2 miles and it started cutting out/stuttering but did not die. pulled to the side of the road and revved the engine several times between 2500 and 4000 rpm was still running and drove the remaining mile home with no further problems.

Past Maintenance history:

-Replaced radiator after fan belt broke taking out sam and  causing an momentary overheat.
-Oil Change
-Transmission fluid change
-Replaced Cam Postion Sensor Plug (Latch side of plug was broke/missing) did not clip any wiring bought new pieces from the local nissan dealership and pinned it with the existing wiring
-Tested Alternator with a digital multimeter which checked good

Note: On the day I performed the alternator test (monday) I had ran the engine at idle for 3 hours. Upon completion took it for a drive and all seemed well initially. did not cut-out, stutter, or stumble during several hard accelerations over a 30 minute period, then it finally did stumble (about a 100 rpm fluctuation) but did not die and the continued on uneventfully.



ANSWER: Gordon,

Sounds like the distributor cap is an indication of the distributor has blown the seal and that has contaminated the optics.  I would replace the distributor and you should be fine.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Follow-Up

Today i was checking out these two particular circuits and found that the knock sensor had three large cracks in it which I am assuming is the cause of the code 34.

As this part is quite expensive to replace i visited a friend who is parting out the same model vehicle (wrecked).
On arriving my car stalled and coded an 11. After visiting for about an hour cleared the computer and checked the plug, i did not clean out the distributor. This time I noticed a very faint clicking noise (not from the plug itself) and difficult to locate but sounds like a relay or something. My son said he has heard this before although i have never noticed it until now.

After this it started and on the way home it stalled and coded 34 every 100 yards or so. After four stops i attempted to restart it without stopping which it did and after two miles of doing this it ran fine and has done so for the past 20 miles.

the code 34 I expected since i had the sensor removed; However the code 11 i did not expect.

Can both of these codes somehow be linked. I am curious since Most of the time i will get codes 11 or 34 and occasionally get both 11 and 34.

Answer
Gordon,

I would replace the knock sensor and make sure the plug is good.  If there is an open circuit the computer will attempt to signal the circuit repeatedly until it answers.  Get that problem corrected first.  Second, remove the distributor cap, rotor and rotor post and then remove the cover and you will see the optical shutter wheel and the pickup and receiver.  If there is oil on them the distributor will need to be replaced.  You can wipre things down with a clean cloth and reassemble and for a short time it will run properly.  But, if there is oil replace the distributor.