QuestionI will try and be clear and concise in giving you a description of the problem that I am experiencing with the car.
• I will be driving and it feels fine till all of a sudden it starts bunnyhopping or surging the car doesn’t stall, but the accelerator stops working. I can take my foot off the accelerator, put the clutch in, if I don’t the car will stall. I change down to the appropriate gear to what I had decelerated to take off again as I accelerate I hit a point in acceleration that causes the car to bunnyhop or surge again, killing the accelerator.
• The problem occurs mainly when the car has been driven a fair distance or time (between 30 - 60 minutes) then switched off and restarted after approximately 1 hours. Following restarting the car will run ok for a short distance (less than 2 kilometers) before bunnyhopping or surging occurs. Also you can stop the car, leave it for 30 minutes, start it again, drive a short distance (less than 2 kilometers) and problem emerges again.
• I've found that if I try and keep accelerating it stalls, but if I balance my accelerator with my clutch I can creep forward fine, just extremely slowly. Usually when the car dies like this I just balance my clutch out and creep forward, taking me FOREVER to build up speed until eventually I hear/feel it kick in again.
It’s a nice little car except for this problem which is happening regularly now. As I have previously mentioned when the car is at normal operating temperature and/or the ambient temperature is warm to hot is when it is most likely to take place. It's just that it always seems to happen when I am in the middle of heavy traffic or passing through a busy intersection, in fact it has become quite dangerous now because of where it occurs.
Take the load of the motor stationery with engine running in neutral rev the engine, hold the engine at medium to high revs and its find, start driving and problem occurs.
I’ve been told by one mechanic that it is a sensor problem e.g. 02, temperature, and cam position. A Nissan mechanic told me that these cars have problems with their fuel pumps where by you have to keep at least half a tank of fuel in the car or the fuel pump will overheat, is this correct? Problem is occurring whether the tank is full or half full so personally I disagree with his assumption (no disrespect).
Following are details of what I have done myself to try and rectify the above problem.
1. Perform fault diagnosis of ECU, no visible error codes present with engine off (mode 2) and engine running (EGR gas sensor check mode). I get a 55 code (all circuits operating correctly) when in mode 2.
2. Check throttle potentiometer resistance at closed, partially open, and fully open, measurements were within given specifications.
3. Check fuel injectors for resistance, actual => 11.1 - 11.2 ohms
4. Remove, clean EGR valve and associated pipes and replacing all associated vacuum hoses and gaskets on refitting.
5. Check operation of BPT valve.
6. Remove and clean carbon from throttle body replacing all associated gaskets on refitting.
7. Fit new fuel gauge sender unit (not related to problem), remove clean fuel pump filter in tank, replace both fuel pump to sender unit fuel hoses, check resistance at fuel pump (0.5 – 3.0ohms), actual => 1.1ohms
8. Replace spark plugs and air filter.
9. Isolate (disconnect) 02 and temperature sensors when problem is occurring no change
AnswerWow, need a job??
A Nissan mechanic told me that these cars have problems with their fuel pumps where by you have to keep at least half a tank of fuel in the car or the fuel pump will overheat, is this correct?
I am not inclined to believe this either.
I know you cleaned the in tank filter, and you can shoot me if you'd like, but the only dumb question is the one I don't ask.
"have you changed the frame mounted fuel filter?
